Click Below For Camera Help page.

How & Why Camera Can Fail To Save Photos, and NOT Be Discovered (Until Too Late), AND Precautions, To Early Discover Loss, Before It Goes To Far. By Henry S Gurr.

Below Is A Quick Start => A VERY SHORT GUIDE To Troubleshooting & Fixing Computers,
After you finish reading David Alexanders "Thoughts", please click the back arrow, at top left of your (web browser) page, you are then reading. This will bring you back here, and is an idea to remember, for when you Need To Go back.
”My Thoughts On Computer Repair” by David Alexander.

If You Already Know Good Safety and Cautions, And Want To Get Going, Then Scroll Down To => ''Section VI) Plugging-In, & Testing, Added Parts To Your Computer.

A Detailed Procedure for Successful Troubleshooting & Fixing X86 Computers. (ie Computers That Runs Windows Or Linux.)

My Extensive & Quite Complete Guide For Fixing Your PC Hardware, Is Written For Anyone From A Beginner To Expert. by Henry S Gurr

These Trouble-Shooting (ie Diagnosis), & Repair Instructions Below Describe My Own Procedures, Which I Have Developed Over Many Years, and Show How I “Bring-Up” An Old, Possibly Messed Up Computer, WITHOUT Burning Out; Something Important. Or at least minimize the chances of permanent damage, as the work progresses.

This “How-To-Do-It” Page Is written for Trouble-Shooting & Fixing Typical Windows PC Computers. Although this Trouble-Shooting & Repair Guide applies mostly to the Rectangular Box Shaped (tower-style) x86 Computers, the steps and precautions are generally valid for most any situation where you are trying to find out where or if something is broken. Thus, using this guide will give you valuable real-world learning experience, and with appropriate adaption, can be applied to any Trouble-Shooting & Repair Situation!

For example, the thinking and steps in this “How-To-Diagnose & Fix” Page, can ALSO be used for most any computer, such as a Laptop Computer, (or even an Apple Mac, etc). Of course the repair person must give due allowance for how these are different from a Tower Windows (Or Linux) Computer.

And in fact, steps I recommend below, generally apply to ANY sort of Trouble-Shooting and Fixing, again allowing for how your repair job differs from a typical computer.

Eventually you should learn about GENERAL THEORY, PRINCIPLES, & PRACTICE OF PROBLEM SOLVING, As Is Applied In Computers and other Complex Systems. Next below are three general resources you may want to consult, especially if your Trouble Shooting is stuck, and can’t figure what is wrong!

A Clickable Index of this page. Click a line of blue text to jump to that place. Click the back arrow, usually in the upper left of your browser, to return to where you were.

SAFETY MEASURES

ELECTRICAL SAFETY FIRST

HIGH VOLTAGE GENERAL WARNING

DO NOT TOUCH ELECTRIFIABLE BARE METAL

ANTI-STATIC PRECAUTIONS & PROCEDURES

WHEN AND WHEN NOT TO PULL THE POWER PLUG

WHEN AND WHEN NOT TO PRESS & HOLD THE POWER BUTTON

CAUTIONS WHEN APPLYING AC POWER TO A NEW ELECTRICAL DEVICE

LEGAL NOTICE

PRELIMINARY LEARNING & PRECAUTIONS

Section I: Preliminary Considerations, Learning About, and Precautions For Repairing Your Own Computer.

Section II: Opening up the computer, visual inspection for trouble, dust removal, and PSU Trouble Shooting.

Section III: The Testing (or Replacement) Of A Computer’s Central Processor Unit (CPU).

Section IV: A Recommended Side Study.

Section V: The Plugging-In & Testing Of Important Computer Hardware Components

Section VI: Plugging-In & Testing Added Parts To Your Computer.

Section VII: Specific Considerations To Be Taken BEFORE Any Further Attempt To Troubleshoot, Fix, & Move Forward Toward Building Up A Working Computer.

SUMMARY & OVERVIEW [We’re still working on this, and three lines below.]

CLOSING THOUGHTS; YOUR TAKE-AWAY.

LINKS TO GOOD RESOURCES ON COMPUTER TROUBLESHOOTING & REPAIR

APPENDIX ON TWO GOOD BOOKS

In Boy Scouts, “BE PREPARED” Is A Good MOTTO, Plus An Ongoing LIFE Requirement!

For Yourself, Wherever You Go => It Is Far, Far, Easier & Far Faster, To BE PREPARED, Always-At-The-Ready => Have Tools, Books, Knowledge!

With Being Prepared in mind, you should be Planning Ahead, For Eventualities You Know Can & WILL Happen! Being Prepared is as an ongoing effort to achieve the following readiness:

In Computer Troubleshooting & Repair, ”BE 'PREPARED”, Is A Good MOTTO, => It Is Far, Far, Easier & Far Faster, To BE PREPARED, ALWAYS-AT-THE-READY. => Have Tools, Books, Knowledge, Links to Useful WebSites!

With Being Prepared in mind, you should be “Planning Ahead, For Eventualities You Know Can & WILL Happen! Being Prepared is as an ongoing effort to achieve the following readiness:

In Medicine & Computers: 'PREVENTATIVE MEASURES ARE FIRST', Remember to BE PREPARED!:

It Is Far, Far, Easier To PREVENT a Problem Than It Is To Fix it! Costs less too!

With prevention in mind, you should learn to do the following:

The following CPU-ID is a recommended HWMonitor APP: This is a hardware monitoring program that determines you PC systems’ main health, such as voltages, temperatures, fans speed, etc. The program, named CPU-ID, handles the most common Temperature, Fan Speed, ^ PSU Voltage Sensor Chips used in computer CPU’s and computer fans. You can set warning beep alarms, for temp too high. To prevent early failure, this fan & temperature warning, is a MUST INSTALL!

In Boy Scouts & Specifically Computers: BE 'PREPARED, Is An Ongoing Life Requirement!

For Yourself, Where-Ever You Go: It Is Far, Far, Easier & Far Faster, To BE PREPARED, , Always-At-The-Ready => Have Tools, Books, Knowledge!

With Being Prepared in mind, you should be “Planning Ahead, For Eventualities You Know Can & WILL Happen! Being Prepared is as an ongoing effort to achieve the following readiness:

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For Your COMPUTER(s) => It Is Far, Far, Easier & Far Faster, To BE PREPARED, Always-At-The-Ready => Have Tools, Books, Knowledge, Links to Useful WebSites!

With Being Prepared in mind, you should be “Planning Ahead, For Eventualities You Know Can & WILL Happen! Being Prepared is as an ongoing effort to achieve the following readiness:

In Boy Scouts & COMPUTERS: Having GOOD HABITS & GOOD STANDARD PROCEDURES, As An Ongoing LIFE Requirement!

ELECTRICAL SAFETY FIRST
Do NOT work on any electrical appliance with the power plugged in, and remember that even well after it has been unplugged, electrical devices may still have lethal charges in various capacitors. A word to the wise: As an automatic habit => Just don’t go around touching wires unless really needed. And if you HAVE to touch a [bare metal wire, or some potentially electrified metal] part, make doubly sure all power sources are removed (for a long time). Many computers will have a small light on their back which indicates a charge. This light does not guarantee safety, but is another indicator.

HIGH VOLTAGE GENERAL WARNING: It is always possible in an electrical device (even a computer), to have certain electrical components, which have deadly levels of voltage on them. Sometimes, but not always, they will have warning labels or have obvious big electrical insulators. Either way, you should learn how to recognize these, and as an automatic habit, keep your distance. Most certainly don’t go around touching wires of bare electrical components without reason or protection. Since considerable computer damage and/or bodily harm could result, it is ONLY for experts who know what they are doing, to discharge dangerous voltages, with a short the wire to ground, with good insulated handle screwdriver. …. As a general safety precaution, as a general habit, avoid touching various bare metal potentially electrified points, unless absolutely necessary. And even then, a) wait a l0ng time for residual stored electrical charges to drain away, and b) stand on an insulated surface, and c) with ONLY one hand, cautiously touch various electrical points. This also applies with more caution, if the electrical point shows HI VOLTAGE insulators. These most likely are lethal. This means deadly!

DO NOT TOUCH ELECTRIFIABLE BARE METAL: As a general rule for fingers and metal tools (even plastic): Unless it is necessary => NEVER touch any bare metal that just might have electricity on it, or connected to static damageable components. This should become an automatic habit, a) to avoid static electricity damage, and b) to avoid personal injury or c) damage from short circuit. After all, your computer may have power, and you might not know it.)

ANTI-STATIC PRECAUTIONS & PROCEDURES: Very Real & Serious & Expensive Computer Damage Can Come From Static Electricity: You need to become very familiar with what causes these tiny static electricity zaps & sparks, and learn how to prevent any from happening inside your computer. You take anti-static measures, principally by grounding your body, regularly touching un-painted bare metal outside of your computer, and don’t stand on (or have anywhere around) static producing synthetic fiber rugs, clothing, or plastics of any sort. Cotton clothing, cotton rugs and wood floor, wood table, clean paper, and clean brown corrugated cardboard, are all appropriate, anti-static materials. As one repair expert stated on his webpage “The usual safety-first rules apply here: Stay grounded and don't do this [your computer work] on a carpeted floor or wearing clothing containing synthetics, because it creates static-electricity. A good idea is to wear an anti-static wrist-strap.” (NOTE: The grounding is to prevent static electricity on your body from destroying computer components.)

You may already know that when a computer is not properly turned OFF, there can be loss or data & other various inconveniences. Because Computer Failure, can happen at any time with NO warning, such as AC Power Distribution failure. For these reasons you should daily make Back-Up (duplicate), SaveAs’s of your documents and other work, into for example a USB Memory Stick, stored in a safe location, away from your computer. Also your computer’s Hard Drive can fail, at any time with NO warning, you should regularly make, Back-Up Duplicates of essentially all your Hard Drive, onto, for example a USB Memory Stick, which is stored in a safe location, away from your computer.

WHEN AND WHEN NOT TO=> “PULL THE POWER PLUG:”
Many Times You Will Need To Turn OFF Your Computer, In Ways That Do Not “Loose Data”. Here are what you should be doing:

WHEN AND WHEN NOT TO=> “PRESS & HOLD THE POWER BUTTON:”
'''The below is worth your time learning how to do, since you might learn how to quicly clear your computer of various jam-ups, and get back to work w/o having to loose data, browser tab, your MS Word Clipboard etc. AND wait for a re-boot of your OS and THEN a re-launch of all your previous APPs. ;-((

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SOME ADDITIONAL CAUTIONS (& STEP), WHEN APPLYING AC POWER TO ANY NEW (OR POSSIBLY BAD) ELECTRICAL DEVICE …. ESPECIALLY A COMPUTER…. AND/OR …. A COMPUTER PSU.

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LEGAL NOTICE: Every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy and personal safety (and free of likely property damage), of the information presented on this and all ZMM Quality web Pages (Text Pages) AND my ZMM Quality Gallery Photograph Galleries (Photograph Web Pages). However, the University of South Carolina, University of South Carolina Aiken, and Henry S. Gurr, make no warranty with regard to it. NO WARRANTY is expressed or implied as to the suitability, free of resultant property damage, or personal safety of the information provided herein. THE USER ASSUMES ALL RISKS.

Section I) Preliminary Considerations, Learning About, and Precautions For Repairing Your Own Computer.

Even before you start your own computer troubleshooting, you should do a quick-read (of this whole page you are reading now), to see, what I consider important for your repair work.

1) Although the repair instructions below describe my own procedures, you should ALSO (at each of my steps below), use Google to find what OTHER repair persons say, comparing statements to my own suggestions. To do this you type in words, such as “computer repair forum” and then add several of my important-sounding words for the topic under consideration. In the Google Hits that come up read what the other writers say. You will learn MUCH from this consultation of the internet! ALSO: See appendixes at the end of this page, for what some other repair experts say about their own computer repair procedures. … And, in general, Wikipedia is indeed an excellent source of very technical information, such as your computer specifications. => To do this, you find the computer’s model number (or whatever is listed on back of your computer box), and type into Google Search. Similarly, you can find location and names of computer components & positions With these same general steps, you can get a surprising amount of info, about any sub-part of your computer, or any technical device!. The same for your computers mainboard, and various computer plug names & pin numbers, with corresponding wire colors. Also, you can find quite technical information on your CPU and your computer’s mainboards => To do this, on the board itself, you look up the model number and type it into Google Search.

After this page comes up, you will discover, that the WHOLE page must be about 12 feet long!!! You will see that, AFTER what appears to be the BOTTOM, THERE IS EVEN MORE. Thus please remember to scroll, till you CAN DO NO MORE!

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SUMMARY & OVERVIEW Of Above Discussed BIOS & Related POST :

The BIOS is effectively a small special purpose Operating System, the code for which is placed in a so named CMOS Memory Chip (or more modern Flash Memory), which in turn is mounted on your computer’s mainboard, by its manufacturer. The BIOS has a number of jobs which include => Finding (and listing on your monitor),to a large degree, ~ all the hardware plugged into your computer’s mainboard, running the POST to be sure all this hardware is in running condition, emitting beep codes, or monitor display, to tell the user the state of this hardware, and then if all is OK, initiating The Boot Priority Sequence, This is a successive series of commands to load into RAM (the first successfully recognized OS, that is on successively The => Internet, Floppy Drive, USB Memory Stick, Optical Drive, Hard Drive. This Boot Priority Sequence can be prearranged (In BIOS Set-Up), by the user, or default. The user also can control what Operating System, resides in any of the drives in the Boot Sequence….. One of the BIOS’s main jobs (not evident in the above), is well described by Scott Mueller => “Think of the .. BIOS as a form of compatibility glue that sits between the hardware and the operating System.” Mueller points out that despite a wide range of Manufactures and Models and Years of Computers, they with the BIOS can be equally prepared to run, practically any version of Windows or Linux. In other words, all various X86 machines, present to the Win (or Linux), OS, a standard interface, As Mueller indicates, the availability of this standard interface, gave any manufacturer, equal access to the X86 market. And the competition between manufacturers, is what guaranteed both low prices, rapid technological development, and eventual the dominance of this X86 type computer.
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SUMMARY: BIOS & POST: WHAT YOU SHOULD REMEMBER.

A) The Basic Input Output System (BIOS) is a small, special purpose OS, which runs the POST, the results of which the BIOS presents in beep codes and on the computer’s monitor.
B) The Power On Self Test (POST), is the actual series of tests. An idea of the tests completed can be inferred, from the listings of the BIOS Beep Codes and IBM POST Diagnostic Code Descriptions here. The Wikipedia Article show photos of POST Diagnostic PCI Cards,
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2) More Preliminary Precautions: Having selected the computer which you will repair, take actions to be sure all that computer’s important Hard Drive Contents, such as data, software, and other information, has been duplicated for Backup.

3) Another potential source of computer damage is overheating , especially your computer’s CPU. In your computer, one of the more likely components to have suddenly failed is your computer’s CPU. This is because the CPU is the most heavily used part of your computer. This generates lots of heat which, in general, can ruin most any electronic device!
Here are some of the causes of CPU Overheating, what to watch for, and what to do about it:

Section II) We now turn to opening up the computer, visual inspection for trouble, dust removal, and PSU Trouble Shooting.

Here remember above: ELECTRICAL SAFETY FIRST
Here remember above: HIGH VOLTAGE GENERAL WARNING:
Here remember above: NO TOUCH ELECTRIFIABLE BARE METAL
Here remember above: ANTI-STATIC PRECAUTIONS
Here remember the ˅˅ NEXT BELOW ˅˅: THERE CAN BE POWER, EVEN WHEN OFF!

6) Next, following the CAUTION above, pull out the AC Power Plug from your computer, and open up the computer by removing the left side panel from your computer. Typically this is done by removing two or three screws from the back, on the side opposite where you plug in the Mouse, Keyboard, USBs, etc. (You may have to Google your computer’s model name and how to open it up). Once opened up … quietly & thoughtfully … study the computer’s insides for a time! You should be able to identify: The grey box PSU close to where the power cord plugs in, the mainboard with its big fan and heatsink mounted over and covering up the computer’s Central Processor Unit (CPU), located somewhat on upper left center of the computer’s mainboard (this may vary based on the model). You are looking for visual evidence of where the problems may lie. Look for things unplugged, broken, displaced, bulged, swelling, bent or nicked components, scraped off insulation, slight discolorations, swelled or bent components, leaking liquids, accumulations of odd funny looking, out of place material, and make sure wires and connectors are all where they should be. Look for tiny warnings of faulty components, especially electrolytic capacitors (These are medium to small sized Aluminum Topped Cylinders that stand up on end on your computer’s main board, and other places). Around these (and any other components) study closely for tiny amounts of out-of-place or peculiar looking extra deposits such as thick liquid or odd white dust. These can eventually mean serious problems. Similar tiny peculiar looking dust or liquid deposits may appear around the CMOS Battery (CMOS = Complementary Metal-Oxide Semiconductor – just meaning a specific type of battery, don’t be intimidated!). During times of no AC Power Input this battery, among other things, maintains the special settings in the CMOS, memory, and also keeps your computer’s clock running. This battery also can leak, especially if soldered directly to the mainboard. After ten years you can expect ANY battery, (especially the “soldered-on” type) to cause big trouble, by leaking and shorting out your mainboard or worse!

6) Continued: You should be aware, that some computers, when covers are removed (or even slightly ajar), have small switches, that prevent your computer from starting or having any sign of life. Now would be a good time to look for them, and o/c remember this, for when you try to start our opened up computer.

7) Also, since someone else (a ham-hand?), may have previously been into your computer, you should look for sagging, out-of-place, or un-mounted parts. Missing screws that are supposed securely hold down components (such as mainboard). And roll your computer over and listen for loose screws or other funny noises, meaning something is loose, and could (sooner or later), make a short circuit, and ruin God knows what. Pay particular attention to whether the CPU Fan or heat sink is loose. As discussed in 5) above, this could cause serious CPU Overheating Damage, if the computer were run in this condition. Also see 5) above on the various causes of overheating.

8) LOOK FOR THINGS THAT ARE UN-PLUGGED THAT SHOULD BE PLUGGED IN. SPECIAL NOTE => IT IS EASY TO NOT SEE AN UN-PLUGGED 2x2 PIN PSU PLUG ON THE MAINBOARD. NOW, SINCE I’VE DONE IT MYSELF TWICE, HERE’S WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW, ABOUT VARIOUS WIRES & PLUGS COMING FROM YOUR COMPUTER’S PSU =>Normally the PSU power connection to your MainBoard is by means of the 20 pin (or 24 pin) PSU connector on the end of an ~18 inch bundle of colored wires. HOWEVER There may also be 1, 2, 3 additional 2x2 PSU Plugs near your CPU location, somewhat opposite the location of the 20 pin (or 24 pin) PSU connector. In various models of MainBoards, especially those since approximately year 2006. You need to be sure that all 2x2 plug sockets are filled (properly plugged-in), or your computer will show no activity. Fortunately, no damage seems to come from turning on AC Power to your computer with some of these not plugged in.

CAUTION: There may be a reason why something is UN-plugged! Don’t do anything, until you have studied the situation and made a plan when or if to plug back in. Hint: You can tell where a plug may have been by the twist & set of the wires. Your plan should be integrated with your overall trouble shooting steps.

9) WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT PSU CONNECTIONS TO YOUR MAINBOARD: Most especially, in computers since say 2006, there may be 3 or more separate +12 volt supplies, and ditto for the +3.5 volt supplies. You know if you have one of these if your PSU has one or more 2X2-pin PSU power connectors. BUT be aware that usually there can be lots of UN-used PSU plug wires on the ~18 inch long wires coming from your PSU, especially the flat 4-pins-in-a-row connectors that typically go to your computer’s Hard Drives, Optical Drives, It is usual to have several of these dangling un-used inside your computer.

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Mid way down this Wikipedia Page (at MotherBoard), you will see color photos of the “ATX Connector” Shown is a typical a PSU 20pin & 2x2 4pin connector, that powers your computer’s MainBoard. Concerning the HardDrive PSU Connector, 4 pin in a row, color photos, are also shown at top and bottom of this page, along with volts, pin #, and, wire color information.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Molex_connector
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You may also see a second Wikipedia photo of what is mentioned above => At the end of this Wikipedia page, is a color photo of the ATX, 24 pin Power Connector that (as said above), is used to plug-in your PSU to your computer’s MainBoard: You have to look VERY carefully for the crack at right, where this type connector can be pulled apart to make a 20pin & 2x2 4pin connector. IMPORTANT: Also at page bottom, just above, is an extensive table of the volts, wire colors, and all the pin numbers that go with these PSU Connectors.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Power_supply_unit_(computer)
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Explanation: The “Power-Good Signal”, is a voltage level on one of the.20 pin connector wires.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Power_good_signal
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10) Finally, look for accumulations of plain ordinary house dust built up on, though, or behind all fan blades, and dust coatings on the fins of heatsinks, as any of these can harm their performance. Even medium dust deposits should be cleaned out before running this computer, since this dust is perhaps what has cause malfunction. Google for instructions how to do this, or see my instructions below.

11) As part of your inspection and study, notice how much dust is on the inside floor of the computer, in the various fans, and in or on the fins of the computer’s Heatsink and Fan (HSF). The dust accumulations, in bottom of computer case, may mean excessively dirty operating condition for the previous life of this computer. When you have confidence you know what you are doing, you may gently remove this dust and dirt. (Following is my paraphrased from a repair website): Use Q-tips or wooden tweezers to remove dust packs. If the tweezers are metal, again take anti-static measures, principally by grounding your body, regularly touching un-painted bare metal outside of your computer, especially while reaching inside), and don’t stand on (or have anywhere around) static producing synthetic fiber rugs, clothing, or plastics of any sort. Cotton clothing, rugs and wood floor are all appropriate.

14) Carefully applied, suction from a household vacuum cleaner might make dust removal easer. Add to the vacuum hose pipe, the “crevice tool” (this is a narrow nozzle, which is for getting into small places). To prevent static electricity from getting to the wrong places be sure to use the kind of “crevice tool”, that is made of plastic, and thus is electrically non-conducting. Naturally there could be electro-static on this nozzle: a) To reduce static on the nozzle, hole it in one hand and all the time you are vacuuming, keep your other hand grounded on the unpainted outside of your computer AND b)Touch the nozzle tip ONLY those places that are solid, well-grounded metal, such as the fan or the heatsink fins. Additionally, some stores will sell aerosol or pressurized air cans specifically made for this purpose, as well as for cleaning keyboards. you may disagree with the use of aerosols, but it should be noted that they’re a worthwhile alternative. I think some use only compressed air rather than aerosols :) In stubborn cases, you can try to remove the fan off the heatsink. This is fairly safe to do if there are obvious screws that can be removed. If there are clips or hooks that extend down to the bottom of the heatsink, I would say do all the medium cleaning you can BUT put off any removal of those clips until absolutely needed to replace the CPU itself. This is because you don’t want to disrupt the heatsink grease and risk overheating the CPU. Read more on this below and do a Google search for more advice on this.

15) Even before CPU failure, one of the things that is the most likely to fail in your computer is its Power Supply Unit (PSU). This a rectangular grey metal box, somewhat larger than 5-6 inches on a side.It is typically located inside and at top rear of your computer, immediately inside where the AC power cord plugs in. You will notice there are LOTS of colored wires, that come out of your computer’s PSU. You should study these, and realize just how important is a computer’s PSU. Usually there will be a white specifications label that will give the PSU’s required AC Volts Power Input, and the various PSU Power Output DC Volts. Write these numbers down for when (or if) you must look for a replacement PSU.
15) Continued If your computer suddenly fails to come on, or show any sign of life or sound, it could very well be a failed PSU. How to troubleshot this problem is in Section II Below.

16) Besides a failed PSU or CPU (as discussed above), There are many Reasons For Your Computer To Suddenly Quit. Before continuing with my troubleshooting advice below, you might quickly scan thru these TroubleShooting WebPages, Looking For Your Problem or Symptoms, Pages c) & d), below, are for respectively Lenovo and HP Computers, and with due allowance for how your computer is different, will have many good suggestions, that will help. Remember what you read, as it may help a you continue studying, my discussion below:

Section II) Continued: The Above Has Discussed The Needed Preliminary Considerations, Needed Learning, and Precautions: We Now Turn To The Actual Steps of Trouble-Shooting Steps For Repairing Your Own Computer.

16) When my computer suddenly fails to come on, I worry that a VERY faulty PSU might burn out or otherwise damage a good computer! Thus, it is unwise to try to turn on an apparently faulty computer, or even leave it plugged in to AC power.

I have made two schematic diagrams, that illustrate a typical component part swap where:

'''Thus
When A ''Sufficiently Close-Twin Computer, can be found, then

You can do a GOOD for BAD, DOUBLE SWAP. =>

A GOOD Replacement Part, is seen to FIX the previously BAD Computer AND

A SECOND GOOD” Computer, CONFIRMS that a presumed BAD Computer Part is INDEED BAD! => Two Diagrams Illustrate Best Way: Twin Computer, GOOD for BAD, DOUBLE SWAP.

BRANCH POINT:

17) '''Getting Back To PSU Testing & Replacement: If the PSU doesn’t test OK, say in the OLD computer (or your PSU test rig), now your problem is finding a replacement PSU.
a) Salvage from old computers is possible though, unless you are considerably experienced, your best procedure is to find a known good PSU. Here are some choices, and let the store or repair person help you get the correct size PSU.
a) Continued: In cases where I think I might have a bad PSU, I check to see if it’s state of operation, by using My Home-Brew Computer Power Supply Unit (PSU) Test Rig. Please see Appendix II, below, for how I built this and use it.

b) If you want to purchase a replacement PSU, Google search “Computer Power Supply Unit Store” to learn the names of suppliers. OR

c) Look in your telephone directory for local computer repair shops, and/or local computer parts stores such as BestBuy.com, Staples.com or Freys.com.
c) Continued: WARNING there are a LOT of different sizes (and watts) or PSU’s out there! You need to be very careful to purchase a PSU that will physically fit your computer, have needed mainboard electrical plugs, and have sufficient watts for various parts of your computer. You probably should get the seller to help you in your PSU choice, since it’s easy to get it wrong. A good place for help is a local computer repair shop that has good recommendations. Google their name, and look for what forums say about them.

d) eBay.com, Amazon.com, and other sellers on the Internet offer used PSUs, often salvaged from old computers. This probably will get a good PSU, but is risky unless you know the reputation of the seller.

e) Before you actually start to swap your new PSU into your computer, you may want to do a Google search for “How To Replace Computer Power Supply Unit”. This will provide more detailed instructions and photos. (Of course, just to be sure, I would test any newly arrived PSU on my Home Brew PSU Tester.)

f) Once you have your replacement PSU, remove AC Power plug from your computer, wait say 1-5 minutes for capacitors to discharge. While waiting, study just how the faulty PSU is installed, and make careful notes (with diagrams), where ALL various wires and plugs go.

g) Now you can remove its 20 (or 24) pin power connector from the computer's Main Board. You will have to squeeze the sides of the connector, to unhook the plastic catch lever, as you pull the 20 (or 24) pin power connector loose. Gently wiggling the plug in all directions sideways, may help it come free. Unplug all of the other PSU power wire plugs from the Hard Drive, CD Drive, and DVD drive.

h) Then study & make sure there is enough room to remove the PSU from the computer box. Now you can remove the 4 (or 5) PSU mounting screws from the upper back of the computer. As you remove the screws at upper rear of your computer, hold the PSU so it does not crash down.

i) Now carefully put the new PSU into your computer, put in the screws, and plug in the 20 pin (or 24) power connector to where it goes in the mainboard. Push down till the side lever goes click and hooks the connector into place.
i) Continued: ATTENTION: Check your notes, to see if there are any other PSU Plugs to be plugged into your MainBoard. For this you may need to review the above paragraph => “8) LOOK FOR THINGS THAT ARE … ”

j) I suggest that, before plugging in ANY OTHER PSU plug wires you demonstrate that your computer’s main board and PSU (Basic Core), will run OK. Now, carefully check over all your work, make sure you haven’t dropped a screw, remove all tools, make sure you have not bumped or dislodged anything, etc.

k) NOTE At many stages of your work stop and think: Also, when applying any power to any computer, it is absolutely MANDATORY to have properly installed, the computer’s Heat Sink and Fan which, with adequate fairly new heat sink grease, pressed tight against your Computer’s Central Processor Unit Chip! WARNING: Failure to have done this properly will result in a burned out CPU! (How I provide this proper “press tight” is discussed in Section III), 5 inches below.)

l) If steps j) & k) above are all OK, then cautiously try (for just a quick partial tap-touch contact) plugging in the AC Power Cord to the back or your computer, while listening for noises or other bad signs. If none, plug-in the AC Power Plug a bit longer, if still no apparent problems, push the plug all the way. AND If still no bad symptoms, try pressing the power button to power up your computer, being ready to quickly unplug the AC Power if baddies seem to be happening. If after several minutes, everything appears Ok, you should start actually USING your computer for normal tasks, such as email, internet browsing, etc, all the while listening and watching for anything peculiar. After several hours you can provisionally put back on the cover side panel. Only after several days can you conclude your fix is a success. But for several months, still don’t leave your computer ON without your being around it, Good luck!

Section III) The Testing (or Replacement) Of A Computer’s Central Processor Unit (CPU).

After being sure the computer’s PSU is ok, the next most likely component to have suddenly failed is your computer’s CPU. This is because the CPU is the most heavily used part of your computer. This generates lots of heat which, in general, can ruin most any electronic device! Also, the added problem of dust blocking needed cooling air flow, plus weak or dried heatsink grease, will add to the destructive stresses on older computers! (See above for topics on dust and how to use the CPUID System Temperature & Fan Monitor Software)

Besides your computer suddenly quitting, there are several “EARLY WARNING”, symptoms of a bad CPU:

m) For CPU work, and general repair, I have discovered that it is best & most convenient, for my fixing work, to lay my computer (if a tower) on a workbench, on its right hand side (so with the left hand side cover removed), the mainboard is horizontal, and components side of mainboard is up.. I orient the rear of the computer to my left and the front of the computer to right. This makes the lettering on the main board easiest to read. ALSO, in this position, it is easiest to inspect or change various main board components, and/or put in a replacement CPU, Heat Sink, or Fan.
SIDE NOTE: Moreover, I have discovered that this above (computer tower), placement (on my workbench), conveniently makes use of gravity to quickly and easily hold down the computer’s Heat Sink and Fan close & tight to the computer’s CPU, until any needed preliminary (or final) tests of the CPU are completed.
n) Here you may want to look at both of the videos discussed in my Breadboarding Internet Resources. Click here to view (successively), two Breadboarding Videos.)

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ATTENTION. Insufficient care with getting this item m) totally correct, can result in a burned out CPU, or worse.
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n) Continued from m): ATTENTION Although this “gravity hold down” works well, it is really a crummy make-do shortcut. And as is true for any time you are matching up the HSF to the CPU great care must be taken that you have correctly applied heatsink Grease AND made sure the Heatsink is in FULL flat tight contact with the CPU surface! AND even once properly in place, it is easy to accidently (and un-knowingly) knock it out of proper placement, since the normal (and proper) straps and hold down hooks may not be applied. (This topic is continued in q) below.)

o) This procedure presumes that when you start working on your Computer, its CPU Chip is

p) Before doing any work (or changes) around either your computer’s CPU or HSF you need to carefully study how all these components do (and/or should) fit securely onto your computer’s mainboard. You can study properly assembled systems or, if necessary, photos on WebPages. Again, be sure to read the above: CAUTION & ATTENTION items. Also read q) below.

q) For any computer be aware that there is heat-sink grease (also called “heat-sink coupling compound”), that must be carefully applied between your computer’s CPU and HSF. Also be aware that for computers older than say 6 – 7 years, this compound can be dried out or otherwise not performing its job of keeping the Computer’s CPU sufficiently cool. This is especially worrisome if there has been an over 50% dust coverage choking up the airflow to the CPU’s Heatsink and Fan. This has probably already caused serious CPU overheating (and damage), and even worse, dried out the coupling compound, leading to even MORE serious overheating (and damage) of your CPU.

r) In such cases, your wisest decision is to disassemble enough to i) get at the dust and dirt, and ii) clean it out from under the Heatsink and Fan, and iii) apply either new heatsink grease or, for a quick CPU viability test, you may temporary use oil as in item s) next below.

s) For Quick viability trials of a CPU you do NOT have to apply the somewhat expensive and time consuming heat-sink grease. On a temporary basis, Automobile Engine Motor Oil works practically as well! So … AFTER You have cleaned and polished the mutual mating surfaces of BOTH the Heatsink and CPU, AND AFTER you have assembled the CPU into its connector and applied the locking lever (if any), AND AFTER you have done a trial fit to see that the Heatsink fan will correctly and fully sit flat and tight onto the CPU, then and only then, just put a small dab of motor engine oil on just the center of the CPU, before adding the HSF. Of course, once the HSF is in place, slide it around to check the HSF is nicely in line with the edges of the plastic retaining frame AND to feel if the oil layer feels right (To see how much oil is needed start with a dab that is about 4 mm in diameter on the center of the CPU, place the HSF, and remove. Then see if the oil has been spread over the whole area of the CPU. If not, try more. Use less if you see oil drool down the sides of the CPU).

We Have Just Finished Discussing The Fixing of the TWO Most Likely Causes Of A Computer Failure. Now, It’s time to move on to the Principles and Practices, of BreadBoarding Test Procedures.

Section IV) A RECOMMENDED SIDE STUDY: At This Point You Need To Learn The Principles And Steps Of Breadboard Testing: This Will Help You Understand Important Troubleshooting Ideas, Presented In Section V), ~20 inches below.

A) For example: A computer repair person (or hobbyist) purchases a new Main Board (MotherBoard) for his computer, he may want to test it out first, prior to actual installation into his computer. This “Check-Out”, is often called “Bread-Board Testing” (or “Breadboarding” or “Bench Test”). This is named after a long tradition of placing electrical or electronic items which are to be tested on an actual (now simulated) kitchen bread cutting board.

B) Traditionally, over the years “Breadboarding” has meant successively plugging-in and testing the various computer components outside the PC case. Typically, the parts to be tested are laid out on an insulated surface, typically wood or cardboard, or an actual kitchen cutting board.

C) One forum writer said “Breadboarding a new computer build, enables me to test all of the parts, before I install them inside the case. Breadboarding means connecting-up, the component parts outside the PC case, while they are lying, spread out, on a suitable insulated surface.”

Breadboarding Allows:

Introduction To WebPages That Show What Breadboarding Allows:
Below Are 7 Good WebPages Which Describe Computer Component Testing Using BreadBoarding: Included Are Set-Up, Actual Test Steps, and Precautions. Please take some time to go over these Links. (Later, we will use the Style & Principles of BreadBoarding, in Sections V) & Section VII.)

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Concerning The Principles, & Practices of Breadboarding: You Now Might Want To Glance At The First 6 Of These Good WebPages and Following 3 Video’s.

A) This WebPage Writer gives lots of good photos of Breadboarding & Testing: “New Computer build? Test the hardware first.”
https://forums.whatthetech.com/index.php?showtopic=120814

B) This WebPage Writer says: “Breadboarding, STRIPPING IT DOWN TO THE BASICS FOR TROUBLESHOOTING”
http://www.tomshardware.com/faq/id-2176482/breadboarding-stripping-basics-troubleshooting.html

C) This WebPage Writer answers question::“Can Someone Help Me Breadboard This Computer?”
http://www.tomshardware.com/forum/296400-31-breadboarding

D) This WebPage Writer says: “I got this checklist from tomshardware.com and it helped me out in the past with main board [mainboard] problems.”
http://www.techrepublic.com/forums/questions/how-can-detect-if-the-motherboard-is-bad/#.

F) This WebPage Writer says: “The following is one of my replies that I have cleaned up, expanded, and added to Tom’s Wiki. This assumes that the new build is completely dead. Even if not completely dead, the same troubleshooting principles still apply.”
http://tomswiki.wikifoundry.com/page/Troubleshooting+a+New+Build

G) This WebPage Writer says: “This is not a troubleshooting guide [which could be used] to troubleshoot a new build failure, but a guide to avoid one. … New hardware that doesn't work is more common than you think, especially when it comes to Motherboards.”
http://forums.whatthetech.com/index.php?showtopic=120814

H) This YouTube video, by an obviously a mature experienced Breadboarder, who shows his parts layout and his complete series of steps to checking out his recent model, high power computer mainboard, and plugging in of CPU, HS, Fan, Ram and last PSU, With solid warning not have AC Power Plugged in till the very last! Because his components are recent models, the heatsink grease is ?already on the HS?, the HS & Fan come attached together, and mount by 4 press-down-till-snap mounts. Older model components do not have these nice features, and you will have more work.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4PXBe9FE0f0

I) This YouTube video, by a young guy,Andy of MacProClub, ,who shows his parts layout and his complete series of steps to checking out his new computer components: Computer - Part 1 – Breadboarding: We most certainly thank him for his good=> Lay-out of work space, clear voice, and good explanation of what he is doing, and good camera work. Also we thank him for anti-static discussion, mention of good things to watch out for, for example, upon the startup, important to check-see that the CPU HE Fan was RUNNINGin fact turning at a good speed! ….. Beginners will instantly see themselves, when shock … at two places … Mr MacProClub … is in great state of panic, when his set-up, does NOT start-up as he expects! Because his components are recent models, the heatsink grease is ?already on the HS?, the HS & Fan come attached together, and mount by 4 press-down-till-snap mounts. Older model components do not have these nice features, and you will have more work.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aEP3OLZvMm0#aid=P96fFZxsQ_o

After you have completed reviewing several the above WebPages, Links B) thru I) , you are ready for the following:

Section V): The Plugging-In & Testing Of Important Computer Hardware Components (Of UN-Known Working Condition), Which May Be Placed Either Inside, or Outside The Computer Box (Tower):

ATTENTION:

PLEASE UNDERSTAND:

The Computer Components (New OR Used), May Be Physically Arranged, In Four Different Typical Physical Configurations, As Follows:

A) The Computer Is “Just A Pile of Parts”: For example, just arrived in shipping boxes, or miscellaneous salvaged components. Naturally this call s for Traditional “Breadboarding”, in which case you should follow, in Section IV) above, the examples of WebPages B) thru E) above:
B) The Computer Parts are still in the computer: This will call for the following three somewhat different approaches depending on whether:

NOTE: Starting troubleshooting with this situation 1) above, is generally the best choice, especially if your computer seems to pretty bad off, or previous repair attempts have failed to find the problem. More detailed instructions of what should be unplugged will be explained below, where you will USE my version of BreadBoarding troubleshooting steps you saw above, in Section IV.

d) If you are ready to do 1) above, you may now skip down to Section VI, where it explains many details, one of which is => “ c) But DON’T plug in anything ELSE, such as … ”

Good Luck!!

Section VI) Plugging-In & Testing, As You Add New Parts To Your Computer.

We Now Discuss the General Series Of Steps, Which In Sequence, Test Successively, The Functional Validity, One Added (Plugged-In), Computer Component At A Time: This I call ''The Plug & Test Series. '

Below are the steps for => The Testing Of Important Computer Components While Still Remaining IN The Computer, And / Or Various Combinations Of Un-Plugged Or Even Physically OUT Of The Computer Case. The testing uses the Typical Steps and Principles As BreadBoarding, which was Discussed Above, BUT With My Own Special Variations.

My General Steps For Testing Computer Components are my own variant of the above links discussing Breadboarding Procedures. The recommendations that follow are valid whether the various computer parts are situated outside of the computer’s case, or still remaining inside, the computer case, perhaps still where the original manufactur put them.

These steps were worked out from a) my 15 years’ experience in designing, testing, and operation of Experimental Nuclear Physics Electronic Instrumentation, b) Internet Reading applied (with growing refinement) to c) My Resuscitation Of some 20 computers, some of which were reclaimed from a Computer Repair Shop’s pile of “rejected-as-junk” computers.

Thus my steps below are especially chosen for computers which might have components that are possibly in bad (or uncertain) running condition. Accordingly, the steps avoid plugging in anything extra until the computer’s Basic-Core is working. Then the Basic-Core is used to test the proper working of one added component at a time.

Steps To Building Up A Working Computer: Using The Style & Steps Of BreadBoarding.
NOTE: These steps, involve successively adding & testing individual component parts, starting with a Computer Mainboard, connected to a PSU (Basic Core). Since these steps call for the computer to be turned OFF, by removing the power cord, these steps MUST presume your computer is

During these three times, a “pull-the-plug-power-OFF” is a NO-NO !

Now remember above: ELECTRICAL SAFETY FIRST
Now remember above: HIGH VOLTAGE GENERAL WARNING:
now remember above: NO TOUCH ELECTRIFIABLE BARE METAL
Now remember above: ANTI-STATIC PRECAUTIONS

Section VII): Here Are Specific Considerations To Be Taken, BEFORE Any Further Attempt To Troubleshoot, Fix, & Move Forward Toward Building Up A Working Computer.

Just to be sure “all the bases are covered”, please do the following:

a) Mainboard solidly mounted, with all of its normal factory screws, tight into the. ) mounting posts. in the computer. No loose screws (or other parts), rolling around, making an electrical short circuit under your mainboard.

b) CPU + HSF, free of dust, and securely held down. And the CPU HS Fan has power (and this fan is seen to run at good speed), and the PSU has all of its intended CPU Power plug(s) in place, plugged into the MainBoard (Basic Core). (Here you may need to again read paragraph => “8) LOOK FOR THINGS THAT …”

c) But DON’T have anything else plugged-in, to your computer Mainboiard, such as RAM, Keyboard, Mouse, Monitor, USBs, PCI Cards, or Auxiliary fans
c) Continued: Of course, if IF some of these are ALREADY plugged-in, you make a judgement choice to leave some (or all) still in place, and/or still plugged-in. … This choice is based on whether any of these have evidence of being in bad shape. You mentally review, what are the symptoms happening now, and the symptoms around the time your computer was failing. If your computer had been successfully running recently, it would most components inside a computer can be tested in place, where you find them, since likely there is only one problem, and likely you can guess which component part, and troubleshoot / test just it. … Otherwiseyour decision should weigh how much the potentially BAD component part(s), could stir-up various other confusing problems OR additional physical damage! You don’t want to have components plugged in, that will prevent you from finding clear evidence as to what is (or is not) working. Again it’s a judgement call based on experience. Of course, if you leave some (or still plugged-in, and despite your best trouble shooting efforts, you get stalled, then you can always un-plug part or all of them, back to basic core, and resume trouble shooting, with just the PSU plugged into your Mainboard. Luckily, most of the time, the various parts that plug into your computer’s Mainboard, even if non-functional, do not cause additional physical damage, just confusing symptoms.

d) Having completed the above, and with the PSU 20 (or 24) pin power plug connected into the Mainboard, give good overall visual check-over, thinking about what is missed or what might cause trouble: (The following steps should sound familiar, since they repeat what was discussed above, for testing of a CPU.) Then slowly, cautiously, push, the AC-Power-Chord-Plug, (into the AC Power Jack, at the back of your computer), until the metal contacts inside the plug, lightly “tap-touch”, to apply a ~1 second of AC power into your computer’s PSU: During this time of power, you should listen for bad sounds, or loud hums. If all OK, hold the power chord contact a bit longer, listening for proper fan sound which will be both from the Heatsink Fan and the PSU Fan. But, seeing as there is no RAM, there should be precious little else in way of sounds. If all checks out ok, “tap-touch” AC Power Plug, a little longer, then a little longer, then a little longer … If power is held ON for say 10 to 30 seconds, there should be a series of beeps indicating that the CPU is probably running, but the beep code says your mainboard is without RAM, or some other problem. Also you should press your ear to the side of the computer near the PSU, and should hear an OK slight “zzzzzzzzz” type AC 60 cycle/ sec Hum.

e) If all seems OK, Remove AC, then be SURE to anti-static your body. Hold one hand against unpainted bare metal (for example an UN-painted tight metal screw) to discharge any built-up charge, and with your other fingers feel the side of HS to be slightly warm. This is good, because a first indication of good CPU running is a bit of warmth. A normal operating CPU will make some heat. AND moreover, this feeling makes sure the HS is actually getting the heat from the CPU, meaning that the HS Grease (or oil), is doing its job properly!

BOOKMARK

f) The presence of slightly warm heat on the CPU HeatSink (HS), Running Fan, Audible Beep Series, and not much else, means your CPU and MainBoard are mostly OK and (after reading the next 2 SIDE NOTES'), you can move ahead to step g) below.

Building Upon What You Found Out In Above Step f), Here are TWO IMPORTANT NOTES, That Have Added Relevant Information, You Should Want To Study.

Continuing From Step f) above.
g) Now you can add RAM: It is best to add one stick at a time, unless you know your RAM is good. Of course each time you handle a RAM stick (or any computer component), you should a) observe good anti-static procedures, and b) avoid touching any bare metal anywhere on the RAM Stick, if at all possible. If the series of beep changes, then that likely indicates positive progress.

h) We now discuss the adding other component parts, in order of importance, or need to use e’m: For example: The Monitor is added next because, it supplies timely & useful information. Keyboard is next, because, this will allow you to respond to Monitor instructions. Mouse could be next, except that it will not work until your Operating System is running, which in turn requires added HardDrive, SSD, or Floppy Drive, which in turn must be loaded with a usable operating System (OS).)

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k) After this, you can add the Monitor, connecting it to the MainBoard Monitor Output Plug, at the back of computer (NOTE: For older computers, your MainBoard may NOT have a Monitor output plug, in which case you will need to add an PCI expansion slot Monitor Card, or an AGP Monitor Card.) (2nd NOTE: The AGP Card, is similar to a PCI Card, but has different plug-in size, and placement location, above the PCI slots, and a bit below the CPU.& HSF. If you are unfamiliar with these part names, you may need to Google them, and look at what Wikipedia says.).
l) Now you can add Keyboard and Mouse, either one at a time or both at once if you’re confident both are working OK.
l) Continued: Now, you can do all the test runs you can think of, including start using your computer, to type into (or modify) your BIOS, or probe around other accessible crannies.
m) After this add the Floppy Drive, with test floppy diskette. If you are just testing this drive, you could perhaps place it on clean paper on one side of the computer, in secure stable location. Plug-in 4 pin Power Connector and ~ 34 pin ribbon cable. (NOTE: Be aware that on older computers (~before 1998), it is possible (per much else in those rough & ready days), to push on the ~34 pin connector “backwards” Typically this will not hurt anything, but you may corrupt data on your Floppy Disk. With this running you can run your old floppy disks, and review what’s on them, like going down memory lane!
l) Continued: There is a neat ~“Win8BootFloppy”, you can download, that is recommended for both testing the Floppy Drive, and as a DOS OS, running your computer for a host of preliminary tests!! Ask me.
n) If all is well, go ahead and mount (with screws), the Floppy Drive in its intended place in your computer. floppy drive bay.

o) Now you should plug into (and test), your Mainboard’s Internet Connection (with an internet cable), your house router. and can do all the test runs you can think of, which includes, start USING your computer=> Browse the internet, check email, read computer repair forums & type answers & suggestions to them! For example please tell forums, about this ''This Detailed Computer Fixing Page, with link!!

p) After this sequentially add, CD and / or DVD drive(s), following steps and considerations similar to step m) for Floppy Drive above. Use old (not so valuable test disk(s), to examine what you can on them, such as file names, and using Mouse Right-Click, ask for Properties. This should be a good preliminary way to test for how well these drives are running. But without an OS, you probably can’t do much more.
q) Now, you can do all the test runs you can think of , which includes, start USING your computer=>, including boot your Windows or Linux, start using your computer, to type documents, listen to music on CD’s, or movies on DVD’s.

r) After this comes the Hard Drive, following steps and considerations similar to / for Floppy Drive above. Your Hard Drive may already have an installed Operating System, and you will find fast enough how well this works. There may be a series of “found new hardware” steps to work through. Or you may need to install a new operating system. You, of course follow the install instructions that come with your new operating system.

s) After this, sequentially, the sound system speakers or headphones.

t) After this various USB devices.

r) After this start successively plugging-in the PCI (or ISA) cards that go with your computer. Again, choosing the ones least problematic, or easiest to mechanically put into place. Of course put them pack in the same slot (ie circuit board connector) they were originally removed from.

GOOD LUCK: If not let me know ....

SUMMARY & OVERVIEW Of The Above Section VII,:

In this section, I have Described A Specific Series of Recommended Steps, For A Repeating Cycle of Steps, To Successively Building Up A Working Computer:'''

As you add each new part, you were able be sure the part (and all of the prior added parts) was working: Thus each added part, successfully joined a “working build”, and a working computer, when you are done. Of course this works for either, new parts or old parts, wherever they came from.
Without Saying So, These Build-A-Computer-Steps, Fit A GENERAL PATTERN, That ConstituteThis Cycle:

'''AFTER EACH AND EVERY Added Component or Part =>'”

PLEASE NOTICE =>

IN COMPLETING THE STEPS A) TO G) ABOVE, YOUR WORK FITS A MUCH LARGER PANORAMA:

The PANORAMA Is Variously Called TrougleShooting, Scientific Problem Solving, Finding the Fault, Proving It, Then Record The Data. =>

These SAME Problem Solving Steps are used in a wide range of human TroubleShooting & Repair efforts =>
Experimental Science, Mechanical Repair, Electrical Repair, Electronic Instrument Development, Mechanical & Electrical Engineering, even Complex Systems, such as Networks.

SOME BASIC “RULES OF THE GAME” ARE SEEN:

YOUR TAKE-AWAY:

Once you fully realize the Logic AND above Base Rules, of “THE LARGER PANORAMA''', then you don’t need to read my instructions anymore!

Sincerely Henry Gurr

Appendix I: "My Thoughts On Computer Repair.” By Wooster Ohio High School Friend, David Alexander.
My best practice is to have two work stations: one for repairs with [with already there], a power cord, monitor, mouse and keyboard all set up to plop a computer down [plug-it-in], and try it out, assembled or disassembled (I should probably have a ground strap ready at hand but I don't, I just make sure I touch the [un-painted] metal on the case before reaching inside). The other workstation has a reliable working computer set up to run, this is used for testing components: Hard Drives, Optical Drives, and various cards.
As part of the first station I have a good working power supply. If a computer does not work it is generally either the main board or the power supply. So I disconnect the power supply of not working computer and plug in the good one. if it boots to the BIOS, then the original PS was bad; if it doesn't get to BIOS, then the main board is bad. I toss the main board, and occasionally, I install a compatible main board from another computer, that had other problems.
I made up a power supply tester using an old voltmeter. It has the molex connector and a two-way switch to select either the 5 volt or 12 volt output. Then I have a 1 ohm resistor that I use as a load, which is activated by a simple contact switch. If I need to check out the other voltages, I just use a regular voltmeter. Come to think about it, I have a large rotary contact switch that I could us to check all the voltages if I wanted to go crazy soldering all the connections. I might even have to draw a diagram. [END David Alexander Email Suggestions.]

[SITEMASTER’S NOTE 1, : Because it is easy to permanently damage it, Dave Alexander’s “other computer” should be of low value, and not have any important data in it. Or at least, in case this 2nd computer “gets-ruined”, have it’s data backed up, and a replacement compute easy at hand.]
[SITEMASTER’S NOTE 2: The “monitor”, Mr Alexander mentions above, can be almost any odd 2nd hand monitor, you happen to have lying around: (This includes for example those old CRT Monitors, that uses way too much AC electricity.) You should realize that your own computer test station, can successfully use any old cruddy monitor, that is too small & inadequate, for any other useful purpose. … Here’s how I know => At my local computer repair shop, I was actually shocked, when I laid eyes on THEIR repair workstation’s monitor! => Mounted to the wall behind the bench was, the oldest beat-up, age discolored, ridiculous, crummy, small screen, piece-o’-junk, your eyes ever saw! Despite my dismay, the unconcerned repairman, just plugged it in, and using it, did the job just fine!

Appendix II: “My Home-Brew Computer Power Supply Unit (PSU) Test Rig:” by Henry Gurr.
I have made my own "Homebrew Six Voltmeter Test Rig", so I can test any X86 computer’s Power Supply Unit (PSU) under operational load conditions. This Test Rig uses six salvaged DC Voltmeters, an old automobile sealed beam head lamp, and an old electric oven heating element that I just happen to have in my junk box. The head-lamp & heat-element, functioning as dummy-loads, are respectively for testing (Under Medium Load Conditions), the Computer’s Power Supply Unit’s +12 v power supply, and the +3-5 v power supplies. …. It just happens that with these (head-lamp & heat-element), the Under Medium Load Amperes come out about right, an adequate PSU test These two loads are plugged into the PSU, by means of one of the 4 pin plugs (on ~18 inch wires), that normally are plugged into a Hard Drive, or Optical Drive.
SIDE NOTE: A nice feature of the head-lamp & heat-element, is that I can immediately see the light, and feel the warm heat, and thus immediately know if all is OK … and if NOT, then immediately power off, before something burns out.
As described below, the “hook-up to these PSU voltages, are available at the “back” of the PSU’s 20 pin (or 24 pin) power connector, which is attached to the PSU, by 18 inch wires. In my test rig, no loads are applied to the PSU’s other voltages, since these are less crucial for computer operation.

The above mentioned 6 voltmeters are connected as follows:

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Explanation: The “Power-Good Signal”, is a voltage level on one of the.20 pin connector wires, and tells you when the PSU itself a) Has been given the go-ahead to turn on the power to your computers mainboard AND b) The PSU itself, by it’s own built-in quality measures, sees OK conditions, AND c) Puts out the “Power-Good Signal”, which (thru your computer’s mainboard) tells your CPU to start trying to boot. You want to watch the “Power-Good Signal”, because, if you see NO CPU action, you have clues where (and where not), to look for, whether the PSU is good-to-go, etc

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Power_good_signal
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Mid way down this Wikipedia Page (at MotherBoard), you will see color photos of the so called “ATX Connector”: Shown is a typical a PSU 20pin & 2x2 4pin connector, that powers your computer’s MainBoard. Concerning the HardDrive PSU Connector, 4 pin in a row, color photos, are also shown at top and bottom of this page, along with volts, pin #, and, wire color information.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Molex_connector

You may also see a second Wikipedia photo of what is mentioned above, At the end of their page, is a color photo of the ATX, 24 pin Power Connector that (as said above), is used to plug-in your PSU to your computer’s MainBoard: You have to look VERY carefully, for the crack at right, where this type connector, can be pulled apart to make a 20pin & 2x2 4pin connector. IMPORTANT: Also at page bottom, just above, are extensive table or the volts, wire colors, and all the pin numbers, that go with these PSU Connectors.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Power_supply_unit_(computer)

A description of a typical hook-up of My Home-Brew Computer Power Supply Unit (PSU) Test Rig:
My voltmeter electrical connection hook-up wires, were just wrapped tight around a small iron nails that I could jam tight into the crannies, on the back side of the 20 / 24 pin power connector, which is at the end of the 18 inch wires from the PSU. (After finished, iron nail was covered with masking tape, for insulation.)

(NOTE1: Many Computer Repair WebPages suggest this same “jam-into-back-of 20 / 24 pin-connection”, with voltmeter probes, for making needed volt meter measurements. )

(NOTE2: My plans are to replace this “small-nail-jam-tight”, method, with a suitable 20 pin mainboard connector, soldered on to the wires A) through F) above. This connector itself, will be salvaged from a smashed mainboard, again from my junk box. ) .

a) Once all is ready with my "Homebrew Six Voltmeter Test Rig", I connected it (by means of the 20 pin power connector attached to the PSU), to the PSU to be tested:

How I Do A Power ON, Testing Of A Problematic PSU, Plugged Into My Home-Brew Computer Power Supply Unit (PSU) Test Rig:
Having selected a PSU for testing, I connected it, to my test-rig, as described above. Then I thoughtfully I double-check over all my set-up: When all is ready, I slowly, cautiously, push, the AC-Power-Chord-Plug, into the AC Power Jack, at the back of the PSU, until the metal contacts inside the plug, lightly “tap-touch”, to apply a ~1 second of AC power into the PSU: During this time of power, I listen for bad sounds, or loud hums. If all OK, I hold the power chord contact a bit longer, listening for proper fan sound from the PSU Fan. There should be precious little else in way of sounds. If all checks out ok, “tap-touch” AC Power Plug, a little longer, then a little longer, then a little longer … If power is held ON for say 60 seconds, during which I press my ear to the side of the PSU, and I should hear an OK slight “zzzzzzzzz” type 60 cycle/sec AC Hum.
Eventually I give PSU about a 10 min “run-in-test”. If the lack of heat, smoke, smell, and bad sounds continue, I deem the PSU ok for computer service. Depending or the previous operational history ot this PSU, I will watch this unit for evidence of any problems, as it is used in actual service. Of course if this power supply has had a history of problems, I just keep it around for test purposes, or put into older computers, that aren’t worth much.

A FINAL THOUGHT: Concerning my Home-Brew Computer Power Supply Unit Test Rig,
Although is sufficient for medium-load-tests, for just the +12 volt, and the +3-5 v power supplies, it makes NO load demand, the ~5 to 8 other “Volt Supplies”, inside the PSU. Clearly, I need to improve my Home Brew Rig, to cover these. Most especially, in computers since say 2008, there may be 3 or more separate +12 volt supplies, and ditto for the +3.5 volt supplies. You will know if you have one of these, if your PSU has one or more 2x2 pin power connectors. For more about this read above “8) LOOK FOR THINGS THAT ARE, … “

Appendix III: "My Bent Wire Shape, Used Fix My Computer’s Broken Hold-Down Hooks, That were Supposed To Hold, the Computer’s Heatsink & Fan, Down-Tight To CPU." by Henry Gurr

April 1st, 2013, 03:05 AM http://ubuntuforums.org/archive/index.php/t-1244557.html

The different ways to attach the Heavy Heatsink, mentioned in this forum above, seem difficult and are mostly specialized for that users motherboard situation only. (Also suggested were: Plastic straps and epoxy. But often epoxy will not reliably stick to some surfaces.)

In my case, three of the four hook holes were broken, in the plastic "hold-down" frame and this plastic not workable for an epoxy fix. I would modify the plastic frame, such as drill holes in it, but the plastic frame is impossible to remove, and removing the motherboard, for access to the plastic frame, seemed too difficult compared to the following:

I was able to make a somewhat complex wire rectangle, that ran under the respective four corners of the plastic frame, with bent up sections on each side of the heatsink: The bent up portions, provided solid places for the 4 hold down hooks that hold the heatsink.

Send me an email, and I can send to you photos of what this wire rectangle looks like, as well as photos of what the final assembly looks like.

The fitting of the wire rectangle was accomplished with the motherboard in place. The wire was bendy enough for me to slice it around the bottom edges of the plastic rectangle, and then it snaps into place. Add HSF, and computer boots up great!!!

Google will find me at Professor Henry Gurr

Appendix IV: More Information About Speccy, A Highly Useful Computer APP => Speccy Shows What’s In Your Computer: A Basic Information-Resource Software APP, Which Might Come In Handy, For Your TroubleShooting, Diagnosis, & Computer Replacement Part Ordering.

http://www.pcadvisor.co.uk/download/portable-applications/speccy-portable-130-482/

BOTTOM LIN FOR SPECCY: by Henry Gurr: For Computer Prevention and Repair, this is a GREAT RESOURCE!! When running, in your computer, Speccy will find and conveniently list everything that is in (and even connected to) your computer! Remember => Speccy will find it.
Speccy APP: This is a don’t miss!

Appendix V: Good Internet Sites For Further Reading & Research On Computer Repair, Which Google Happens To Find:

BUT PLEASE REMEMBER: There Is A HUGE RESOURCE out there, and you ALSO should be on look-out for good Computer Fixing Guides, And if you Know Of Better, Please Send Email!

A) WebPages Re Computer Basic Repair: THEORY, PRINCIPLES, & PRACTICE of PROBLEM SOLVING:

Below are good WebPages Re GENERAL IDEAS FOR TROUBLE-SHOOTING =>
Although I was not able to find WebPages about, General Principles for Fixing Computers, I was able to find Genera Principles Discussion for the Topic Areas you see below. By reading these pages, you will have the Theory & Principles you need to learn, about Problem Isolation & Diagnosis. Your brain will automatically see how to apply these principles to Computers.

Despite the fact what you may initially think, the below WebPages will be very valuable reading. You should realize, your mind automatically will be seeing the important General Principles, even though the discussion is on say Networks or Industrial Systems!

Of course you will be looking for specific repair ideas, but on automatic, you mind is built to intuitively Find the General, by Understanding the Particular! It does not matter, whether, Your Lawn Mower, Your Computer, or Any Other Phase of Your Life, your brain will find the important ways, you need.

The Nine WebPage Discussions Below, Are In The Order You Should Study Them. (Starting at the top.)
And as you Read, Please Notice These Seven General Problem Solving Principles, also called '' “Structured Troubleshooting Approaches.” '

General Concepts And Pitfalls In Problem Solving CRC Press Online: Inventive Techniques For Design Engineering Problem Solving.
https://www.crcpress.com/authors/news/i3061-inventive-techniques-for-design-engineering-problem-solving

Structured Troubleshooting Approaches, In Troubleshooting Methods for Cisco IP Networks:
http://www.ciscopress.com/articles/article.asp?p=2273070&seqNum=2

Network TroubleShooting: Network Component Swap Tests.
http://its.ucsc.edu/network/troubleshooting/swap.html

General Troubleshooting Theory: Goals and Processes: A Desktop Training Series:
PeachPit.com offers “Apple Training Series,” which is shown in Five Chapters (on Five Successive WebPages): Although Apple Computer specifics are mentioned, the below 5 pages REALLY ARE on “The Theory” & ”General Problem Solving”: Thus you can (skim the Apple specifics and), will be able to focus your full attention on Principles, & Practice Of Problem Solving, In Computers:

Chapter 1 of 5 Goals and Processes, In Computer Problem Solving => An Overall Orientation, Including: Reference Files, General Troubleshooting Flowchart, and Component-Isolation Charts And Exercises.
http://www.peachpit.com/articles/article.aspx?p=420908

Chapter 2 of 5 Troubleshooting Process.
http://www.peachpit.com/articles/article.aspx?p=420908&seqNum=2

Chapter 3 of 5 Split-Half Search.
http://www.peachpit.com/articles/article.aspx?p=420908&seqNum=3

Chapter 4 of 5 Component Isolation.
http://www.peachpit.com/articles/article.aspx?p=420908&seqNum=4

Chapter 5 of 5 Chapter Tests.
http://www.peachpit.com/articles/article.aspx?p=420908&seqNum=5
SIDE NOTE: While we are on THE TOPIC of GENERAL THEORY, PRINCIPLES, & PRACTICE of PROBLEM SOLVING, you may want to consult the following TWO BOOKS, to “Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance” and ”Repair & Up-Grading Your PC” by Scott Mueller..

Appendix VI: B) WebPages Re Computer Basic Repair: HARDWARE

SIDE NOTE: In Addition To Fixing Computers, The techniques of Trouble-Shooting…. (ie Finding and Fixing … What Has Gone Bad), … May Be Applied, In Many Areas Of Our life: The More Trouble-Shooting you do, the more successful you will be, irrespective of whether computers, or elsewhere in your life: This Is Well Covered in Wikipedia =>

An EXCELLENT Computer Hardware, General Trouble-Shooting Guide From Foner Books: PC Memory, Processor and Motherboard Diagnostic Flowchart.
http://www.fonerbooks.com/cpu_ram.htm

Basic Troubleshooting Techniques
http://www.gcflearnfree.org/computerbasics/basic-troubleshooting-techniques/1/

PC Repair & Troubleshooting Course Manual: Uploaded by Jed Tedor
This gives a good introduction of the functions of the various hardware parts of a computer tower, with MANY good photos: The second half covers installation of Windows XP Operating System: Course covers: Personal Computers, Booting, Random Access Memory, BIOS, Central Processing Unit.
https://www.scribd.com/doc/13080857/PC-Repair-Troubleshooting-Course-Manual

Also see ~12 inches below => Wicki How, for good hardware problem fixes.

:

Appendix VII: C) WebPages Re Computer Basic Repair: OPERATING SYSTEM, SUCH AS WINDOWS 7,8.10

In links below, you will read about how you could fix various (software) problems, by doing various steps, some of which will make MAJOR & PERMANENT CHANGES to your computer. In the discussion of these steps, these pages will NOT WARN you about these changes, nor do they point out that such changes to be successful REQUIRE A WELL FUNCTIONING (NEAR PERFECT, STABLE) COMPUTER HARDWARE!!! Everything, right down to the last teeny bit, MUST be EXACT PERFECT!. …. Otherwise Garbage-In Hardware, can create Garbage Out, in your computer’s software. ….. You will see no warnings telling you which of these steps (such as disk-clean-up, disk defragment, scan disk & repair), absolutely require “stable hardware”, NOR tell you that erratic non stable computer hardware, could software wise, cause all kinds of permanent baddies, that can cause a real mess disaster in your computer, on your Hard Drive, OR various APPs, OR Operating System such as Windows or Linux. Now, since an erratic computer, most likely introduce erratic spurious changes to your HD, APPS, or OS, you better first get your hardware to near perfect condition, especially if you see on-going irregular behavior or warning Pop-up messages. One way to know the extent to which baddies are happening in your computer (possibly from the hardware): In Win10 (and similar for Win95/98, Win2000, Win7, Win8, –Win10), you can use so called Event Viewer, look at various Event Logs or Error Reports, or other system records: About these on Win7 (and similar for Win95 –Win10), you may learn here:
https://technet.microsoft.com/en-us/library/cc766401(v=ws.11).aspx

Given what I say above, you may wonder why these spurious baddies of erratic, non-stable hardware, don’t cause more evident problems: First off, most computer hardware, most of the time, IS, running near perfect! It’s pretty amazing!! AND most of the time the time your computers Operating System, is watching for these baddies, and either fixing them on the spot, or arraigning to go go-ahead anyway: … And, even if it has crashed … the OS just picks up the pieces, and gets going again. The only way you know a crash has happened, is that, in Windows, the task bar at the bottom of your screen, disappears for ~20 seconds! Either way watch for these, and watch for slower & slower operation, or excessive fan sound, since these might be telling you something.

Despite all the troubles & worry, which may come from steps, such as I mention above, generally your computer’s own hardware is not much damaged by mal-functioning software, whether an APP you download, or a messed up Operating System (OS). Generally, the only hardware damage, that can be caused by a malfunctioning APP or an OS, is gradual physical extra wear on say your Hard Drive, or huge fierce, long running of your CPU, These (or other computer components), can be caused to over-heat, and suffer heat damage, sufficient to weaken or kill. Thus, you should watch for these happenings, and be quick to stop them ASAP. but otherwise such worries are thankfully, minimal.
With the above in mind, please look over the following links.

Tips to improve performance in Windows 10: Has Links to 11 different full page discussion of how to optimize all parts of your Win10 user experience.
https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/help/4002019/windows-10-improve-pc-performance

What DOUS Cause Your Microsoft Window Computer, To Slow Down, Over Time? Win Operating System Discussion.
http://lifehacker.com/5435523/you-dont-need-to-regularly-reinstall-windows-heres-why

The Basic Guide to Troubleshooting Common Windows PC Problems.
http://lifehacker.com/5628396/the-basic-guide-to-troubleshooting-common-windows-pc-problems

See WickiHow.com, Covers The Following Topics, Which Overall Discuss => A) Repairing General HARDWARE Problems, and B) Two WINDOWS OPERATING SYSTEM Problems:

http://www.wikihow.com/Repair-a-Computer

Appendix VIII: Concerning WebPages Re Computer TROUBLE SHOOTING & BASIC REPAIR:

PLEASE REMEMBER =>

Below are some good guides you might consult, and learn from.

TechNet Video 8 Tools for Troubleshooting Windows 8.
With each of the 8 tools being shown for 8 minutes each, you'll no doubt walk away with the arsenal needed to troubleshoot almost any Windows problem: What you learn about Win8, is likely to apply to any other WinXX, or even Linux!
https://technet.microsoft.com/en-us/video/tdbe13-8-tools-for-troubleshooting-windows-8.aspx

Tools for Troubleshooting Windows 10, Lots of Text and Video: I remember Seeing this somewhere on Internet, but can’t find it now:

Tools for Troubleshooting: Microsoft Windows XP Professional provides a number of tools that can help you diagnose and resolve hardware and software problems. The … tools discussed here is especially useful for troubleshooting many common problems.
https://technet.microsoft.com/en-us/library/bb457126.aspx https://technet.microsoft.com/en-us/library/bb457126.aspx

Chapter 7 Troubleshooting: Microsoft provides the following objectives for "Troubleshooting":
https://msdn.microsoft.com/en-us/library/cc751273.aspx

E) Interesting ADVANCED Discussions Re: Various WINDOWS OPERATING SYSTEMS.

Special Techniques For, Tracking Down Bad App That Causes Excess CPU Time.
https://blogs.technet.microsoft.com/markrussinovich/2008/04/07/the-case-of-the-system-process-cpu-spikes/

Why Does Rebooting Your Computer Fix So Many Issues?
http://www.makeuseof.com/tag/rebooting-computer-fix-many-issues/

HSG will post more like above, as more are discovered.

Appendix X: Above We Have Offered Many Good Internet Sites For Further Reading & Research On Computer Repair:

NOW, To Compliment The Above, We RECOMMEND TWO BOOK: ----

A) THE TWO COMPUTER FIXING BOOKS YOU SHOULD OWN, & MUCH READ:

It was my VERY WONDERFUL GOOD FORTUNE to happen to discover, a copy of' Scott Mueller’s Upgrading and Repairing PCs 6th Edition''. This was in the Greenville Public Library Lobby, among their excess donated, somewhat-out-of-date books, and for-sale $1.00. Since this edition covered, the older computers I was then fixing ~2009, it was a great resource! Most especially since I was then quite new at Computer Repair: Because I found Mueller’s Book so valuable, I think important to show you below, what Amazon.com says about the latest up-date editions! AND even though I had Google & Wikipedia as resources, Scott Mueller’s book still was a God Send!!! No doubt this will be for you also!

Below is what Amazon.com Says About Various Editions Of An Excellent Repair Book:

For more than 25 years, Upgrading and Repairing PCs has been the world’s #1 guide to PC hardware: The single source for reliable information on how PCs work, troubleshooting and fixing problems, adding hardware, optimizing performance, and building new PCs. This 22nd edition offers beefed-up coverage of the newest hardware innovations and maintenance techniques, plus more than two hours of new video.

Scott Mueller delivers practical answers about PC processors, mother-boards, buses, BIOSes, memory, SSD and HDD storage, video, audio, networks, Internet connectivity, power, and much more. You’ll find the industry’s best coverage of diagnostics, testing, and repair—plus cutting-edge discussions of improving PC performance via overclocking and other techniques.

Mueller has taught thousands of professionals in person and millions more through his books and videos—nobody knows more about keeping PCs running perfectly. Whether you’re a professional technician, a small business owner trying to save money, or a home PC enthusiast, this is the only PC hardware book you need!

NEW IN THIS EDITION
The newest processors, including Intel’s latest Core i Haswell processors and AMD’s Kaveri core processors.
Everything you need to know about the latest GPU technology from NVIDIA and AMD, including developments in OpenGL, DirectX, and Mantle.
New firmware innovations like the InSyde BIOS, Back to BIOS buttons, and all the updated settings available for the newest processors and chipsets.
The latest in updated home networking standards, from blazing fast 802.11ac Wi-Fi to HomeGrid and G.hn powerline networking.
Ever larger storage, thanks to new technologies like helium-filled hard disks, shingled magnetic recording, and Cfast and XQD for flash memory.
Emerging interfaces such as mSATA, USB 3.1, and M.2
Updated coverage of building PCs from scratch—from choosing and assembling hardware through BIOS setup and troubleshooting

ON THE DVD
Get 3 hours of up-to-the minute, studio-quality how-to videos—all playable on your DVD player or computer! In this edition, Scott Mueller delivers a complete seminar on PC troubleshooting, teaching you how to identify and resolve an array of common and not-so-common PC problems.
From detailed explanations on all the tools that should be a basic part of any PC toolkit, to all the critical rules you should follow to safely operate on your PC’s internal components, in these videos Scott Mueller ensures you are equipped with everything you need to know to successfully resolve your PC’s problems.
From there, Scott takes you through a complete disassembly of an All-in-One (AiO) system, showing just what you can do to keep these specialized systems running smoothly. Finally, there is a detailed look at today’s ultra-fast solid state disk drives (SSD) and the benefits they bring to modern systems.
This DVD also contains the complete 19th and 20th editions of this book in printable form, plus extensive technical reference material, a comprehensive glossary, and more!

Adam Overa, Managing Editor, Tom’s Hardware Says' About Scott Mueller’s Upgrading and Repairing PCs 6th Edition
“…continually revised and updated to reflect the ever-changing PC landscape. A resource from my PC repair days, Scott Mueller’s tome is one of the books that has stayed on my bookshelf
throughout the years.”
https://www.amazon.com/Upgrading-Repairing-PCs-Scott-Mueller/dp/0789712954

[SITEMASTER’S NOTE: Although the following two Book Reviews are somewhat dated, there is no doubt these two above reviews are true of ALL editions of Scott Mueller’s book, right up to the current 22nd edition. Also if you are repairing older computer, what you may actually WANT is an older edition of Scott Mueller’s, book to match the approximate age of the machines you are working on!]

An Amazon.com Review Says
Mueller opens his book with square-one information about opening a PC case--including a discussion of various screw types--and assembling a righteous set of tools. He quickly moves on to preventive maintenance and the guts of computer systems. Sections cover critical components (such as motherboards and CPUs), input/output devices, and mass storage components. A lot of the book's information has to do with buying replacement parts. (After all, if you find a solid state device to be faulty, you're going to have to replace it. The age of fix-all duct tape is gone.)
Upgrading & Repairing PCs, Eighth Edition, [Now in 22th Edition], gives you the explanatory text and the technical charts you need to get your machine humming, but it describes technical details more than step-by step procedures. You'll find all kinds of pinout diagrams, POST beep-code charts, and a detailed glossary. A companion CD-ROM contains six electronic books that you can search for topics such as the Macintosh, networks, operating systems, and (interestingly) the fourth edition of Upgrading & Repairing PCs, which contains information about older hardware.
A Second Review At Amazon.com Says
"For professional technicians and hobbyists, this is the most trusted and popular guide on the market. "The Bookseller”, Aug 2001.

For Laptop Computers, Mueller ALSO has a series titled Upgrading and Repairing Laptops that shares some of the material of Upgrading and Repairing PCs but focuses on the maintenance of portable computers:
Upgrading and Repairing Laptops. Indianapolis: Que, 2005. US edition. Second edition, paperback.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Scott_Mueller

B) An Excellent Book For An Overall Introduction To Trouble-Shooting, Fixing, Not Getting Stuck, Keeping-Your-Wits, AND Keeping Up A Good Attitude, Despite Frustrations, & Set-Backs.

About 20% of Robert Pirsig’s Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance (ZMM), REALLY About Perceptive TroubleShooting and Repair! :

This book can really, really, help you, because it truly is about Fixing Things, and thus has What You Need To Know, even with computers.

The ZMM Book Has =>

As Robert Pirsig says:

For Robert Pirsig’s ZMM Book: Here Is The Solid Recommendation Of Computer Expert & Computer Book Author, Nicolai Langfeld: ''
“Another must for good DNS administration (or good anything for that matter) is Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance by Robert M. Pirsig.”

To Read Passages From ZMM, That Support My Above Statements, please see my “Excerpts From ZMM Book, That Illustrate The Achieving of Good In Maintenance, Trouble-Shooting, & Fixing.” After this page comes up, please scroll down to “ZMM helps with of ANY Problem, motorcycle, Computer, or Otherwise.”

So there you have it! This is the End of My Page: How To Troubleshoot & Fix Computer Hardware. (With added Links and Descriptions, re Trouble Shooting Software.)

Some Final Thoughts, On The Added Benefits Of Fixing Your Own Computers:

Doing your own repair, in general can get your computer back to life faster, fewer miles, and cost than the repair shop.
But beyond this, there are benefits like =>

You should get the idea, that Learning TroubleShooting & Fixing, is well worth the effort.
Click here for my “XMind Learn-By-Doing, Theory Of Learning”
(from Archived Copy On Internet) ”on XMind Users Forum, 2ndHalf.

For sake of completeness ONLY, here is First Part of my Xmind Mind Mapping APP, Hints & Helps Guide. This has NO information re Computer Fixing.
(from Archived Copy On Internet) ”on XMind Users Forum, FIRST Half, on Hints & Helps: How To Use Xmind Mind Mapping APP..----

By Henry Gurr+ Revw&FeedbackByTimLearnsrd28Apr14HsgRev10Mar17
File = BngUp....EmlHsg45Rpg04 … .doc