"Quality is the parent, the source of all subjects and objects." - Robert Pirsig |
Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance Travel Guide: You Too Can Become a Pirsig Pilgrim!This webpage is a travel guide for anyone seriously contemplating a trip along the ZMM Route. This guide gives all the route numbers, so you can follow the same highways described in the book Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance (ZMM). To a good approximation, these were the highways actually taken by author Robert Pirsig in the Summer of 1968. This guide tells how to find many of the sights and scenes depicted in the book "Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance" (ZMM). Published in 1974, this most unusual book on philosophy and right-living is a semi-autobiographical novel of author Robert Pirsig's actual journey through the American West in July of 1968. Those persons who themselves have traveled the entire ZMM Route (Minneapolis to San Francisco), earn the Title “Pirsig Pilgrim” After this page comes up => Scroll down to Gennie DeWeese Creation of Concept: ‘‘Pirsig Pilgrim’‘ An Apt Locution, for a ZMM Enthusiast who has followed the Narrator & Chris Route all 2100 fantastic miles! This travel guide should be used in conjunction with a complete review(close study & write paper notes), of the information in my Web Photo Album, Color Photos: ZMM Sights and Scenes Illustrated. Captions of these photo have much detailed travel information and give specific reasons why you should follow certain route choices,, especially where ZMM is somewhat ambiguous. IntroductionThis summer you may decide to head for Minneapolis and try your hand at becoming a "Pirsig Pilgrim!" If you like the book "Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance" (ZMM) and like to travel, you may want to retrace the route traveled by the father and the son from Minneapolis, MN to San Francisco, CA. You will be richly rewarded as you actually travel and experience the scenes of the book. As a Pilgrim, you will relive the trip …. in a new way …. in a different dimension …. literally and figuratively. …. The essay by Thomas Steele on this website, speaks to this mind-expanding experience of "co-living in the world of direct experience with the world of the novel." Click here to read Fr Thomas J Steele’s “In the Footsteps or the Bike-Tire Tracks…My Trip to Interview Gennie and Bob DeWeese” The exhilarating experience of the ZMM Route Travel should be apparent in: 1) “My ZMM Travel Experience Page”, by Henry Gurr (Or click in menu at left.)
2) The Photos Journal of Mark Richardson. (Or click in Menu at Left.)
3) Gary Wegner’s, Celebrate 45 Years Robert Pirsig Original ZMM Ride. (Or click in Menu at Left.)
More Relevant Links are given in “ZMM Links” in Menu at left. Use your computer’s Edit > Find to search
for these above mentioned names.
Hey! Prepare Carefully!The ZMM Route is a long journey. The distance, traveling by way of Yellowstone National Park, from Minneapolis MN to San Francisco CA, is over 2100 miles. You will want to prepare for such a trip with great care. As Pirsig says, if you rush through the planning process, and you are not mindful, and you have insufficient care …. low quality will result! General instructions for travel preparation are given on ZMM p34. (Page numbers herein, apply to the Bantam New Age Paperback edition of ZMM.) Of course, you should carefully study this Travel Guide and seriously study all my “Sights and Scenes” photos mentioned above. This careful reading (plus write down planning notes) before your travel, will not only help you avoid costly mistakes and accidents, but such reading actually prepares your mind to SEE. The prepared mind sees much more and is less inclined to miss the things you want to see. I can tell you that during my 2002 ZMM Trip, I missed some really great views that I only discovered upon a second trip, especially thru the Beartooth Pass. Many of my Summer2006 pictures, posted my Photo Gallery this site, point out what my first trip missed. So read ahead and plan ahead! Attention! Important! Achtung! The information given below has been obtained from many people. More information about each person, marked with a person's initials, appears in the notes section at the end of this page. You Will Need Maps, Ready To Take With Youl .For both your trip planning AND carry with you on your travel => You should purchase a good detailed Road Atlas such as published by Rand McNally Company or consult your favorite map website, or have an available GPS in Smart Phone or Handheld Unit. You might want to mark your Road Atlas, with the towns, that Author Robert Pirsig has accurately named, as the series of towns traveled thru in ZMM, most especially after Yellowstone Park. The actual roads you should follow are fairly well defined by the towns so named. You could mark your atlas as you read ZMM, but this has been done for you by Ronald DiSanto and Thomas J. Steele, in their Guidebook to Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance (GZMM). I highly recommend that you purchase this book, since it has lots of very interesting and valuable information. In addition to the ZMM route map shown in Chapter One, Pilgrims will find the notes in GZMM Section 11 of special interest, especially while traveling the ZMM route. Since the GZMM ZMM Route Map is pretty small, you should mark on your own larger road atlas, every town GZMM Map shows. As an alternate, you may want to mark the route on your atlas while reading the route outline below OR use Gary Wegner’s a very nice maps at How To Get ZMM Route Maps and ZMM Route Photos. You Will Want To Also Take With You => 1) Print on paper, a copy of this Travel Guide and
2) A copy of ZMM Book and
3) A copy of the “Guidebook the Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance.”
Henry Gurr's 621 Collected GPS Waypoints, That Mark => The Travel Route So Accurately Described In Robert M. Pirsig’s Book “Zen And The Art Of Motorcycle Maintenance”,Below Are Instructions For Displayed These GPS Waypoints On A Google Map. AND On This Google Map, In Turn, There Is => 1) A ClickPoint For Requesting To See These GPS Waypoints, On Web Version Of GoogeEarth.
1) A ClickPoint For Download Of These GPS Waypoints, Into Your Computer, For Eventual Import InTo Your Handheld GPS Device. '''
….Based on a) Henry Gurr's Summer 2002 research trip and photos, and b) Also more recent research to find locations of interest: These GPS WayPoints, mark ZMM Route travel stops, and additional information. The ZMM Route begins in Minneapolis, MN and ends in San Francisco, CA.
1) AND On This Google Map, In Turn, There Is A ClickPoint For Requesting To See These GPS Waypoints, On Web Version Of GoogeEarth.
'''Now, The Steps to see these Waypoints on GoogleEarth
i) Upper Left is a Red Rectangle, with three White Dots at Right Edge.
ii) Click on this and then click on :”View map in Google Earth”.
2) AND On This Google Map, In Turn, There Is A ClickPoint For Download Of These GPS Waypoints, Into Your Computer, For Eventual Import InTo Your Handheld GPS Device.
Now, The Steps to get this Google Map to DownLoad into your computer =>
i) Upper Left is a Red Rectangle, with three White Dots at Right Edge.
ii) Click on this and then click on "DownLoad KML",
Please be aware that this "DownLoad KML", will have to be converted to Computer File System called .GPX Bing or Google will help you find how to do this. CalTopo.com should work
The Following Is A Report Of A knowledgeable GPS User, Who Used The Above Mention Instructions, And Successfully Did The “Download”, Converted .KML to .GPX, and Imported Into His Garmin Montana GPS Device.
My, Henry Gurr Reply Back =>
Whenever You Want To Have GPS Navigation Showing Map, We Highly Recommend => “Garmin Locus Map” APP, For Your Android (Or iPhone, Which May Eventually Get A Version With Limited Abilities.)
**** NEW TOPIC *****
…. “The road turns inward, away from the gorge and into snowfields”.
Beartooth Highway, ~2 Miles Straight South of Montana-Wyoming Border, Central Beartooth Plateau, MT-WY Border Area.
Similar To The Above TWO Blue Links, ALSO, GoogleEarth Can Show => In The Center Of The Beartooth Plateau The ZMM Route Encounters => A Five Switchback Road =>
1) Scroll Up To Where You Read This => AND On This Google Map, In Turn, There Is A ClickPoint For Requesting To See These GPS Waypoints, On Web Version Of GoogeEarth.
2) Then follow the steps until you have the GoogleEarth View Up On Your Computer.
3) Then Successfully ClickDrag & ClinkOn The (+) so you can get closer & closer to where you can see WayPoints 142 thru 146, at center screen.
4) Then ClinkOn The (+) so you can get closer & closer to where you can actually see the 5 Switchbacks or the road as in climbs the Hogback Landbridge.
5) Then lower right ClickOn The 3D and watch the action. Ane to see this happen again. ClickOn The 2D, then 3D again. and
6) Then ClickDrag the View (in several different dirrections) so your eyes can make out the 3D landscape, to see how steep are both sides of the Hogback Landbridge and how far down are the. Valleys of both sides.
7) Please sent me an email at HenryG__USCA.edu, and tell me how well this works for you & if you like this.
The Narrator’s Enormous Round Table At The University of Chicago.Pilgrims traveling toward Minneapolis from the Eastern USA may want to try their luck at finding the location of Pirsig's University of Chicago classroom and his ‘‘enormous wooden round table with the crack down the middle?’‘. Pirsig was enrolled in the U. Chicago Ideas and Methods graduate school program during the years around 1963-1966. Among the persons whom I have contacted at U. Chicago, no one seems to have any awareness of the ‘‘enormous wooden round table’‘ or even ‘‘the dreary room across the street from a hospital, where the late-afternoon sun from over the hospital roof hardly penetrated the window’‘ (ZMM Ch. 29 page 326, Bantam New Age edition). Professor Frederick Antczak, former Chair of U.C. Ideas & Methods, stated that ‘‘the Ideas & Methods Program in those days was in Cobb Hall.’‘ My ZMM Part III photos show the round tables I found at U. Chicago and say how to get there. (If anyone has any additional information, please send me an email => Click last lines below Contact Me for addresses.) Perhaps the U. Chicago registrar could be coaxed into looking up Pirsig's records and finding the room number of Pirsig's old class rooms, if that still remains in the records. ZMM author, Robert Pirsig, Lived And Worked In Minneapolis, MN. This Is Pirsig's Hometown, and Has Many Noteworthy ZMM Sights.The ZMM novel itself points to Minneapolis as being the Narrator's home. As the story opens, the Narrator is ‘‘heading northwest from Minneapolis.’‘ He talks on (p5.7), about traveling ‘‘for miles on these roads,’‘ on various weekend excursions with his riding and drinking buddy John Sutherland. From this alone, we are lead to believe the Narrator, his son Chris, John, and John's wife Sylvia, live in Minneapolis. Moreover, on page 143, ‘‘John mumbles something a few times, looks up and announces, ``This does it --- this just does the whole thing for us --- . Now we can go back for another eight years on Twenty-Six-Forty-Nine Colfax Avenue.’‘ Minneapolis does have Colfax Street which runs from South to North just West of the downtown district. The 2649 address is not very far from the downtown area, but uncertain as to whether it is North or South of the town center. My photos for ZMM Part I show the house at this South Colfax address. See photos of this house in the THIRD ALBUM DOWN at => http://venturearete.org/ResearchProjects/ProfessorGurr/gallery/albums.php?set_albumListPage=2 There is another connection to Minneapolis: Hanging in Phaedrus' English Dept. office in Bozeman was, ‘‘not a painting, it's a print of a painting he ordered from New York and which DeWeese had frowned at because it was a print and prints are of art and not art themselves, a distinction he didn't recognize at the time. But the print, Feininger's 'Church of the Minorites,' had an appeal to him that was irrelevant to the art in that its subject, a kind of Gothic cathedral, created from semiabstract lines and planes and colors and shades, seemed to reflect his mind's vision of the Church of Reason and that was why he'd put it here. All this comes back now. This was his office’‘ (p143). Back in ~2002, Bill Paton sent me the following email: ‘‘There is a painting in ‘‘the Walker Art Center in Minneapolis where Robert Pirsig is from. It is ‘‘The Church of the Minorites II’‘ by Lyonel Feininger and is undoubtedly the print that Pirsig had on the wall."
I) At Quantonics
II) At ZMMQ Gallery Album Click Here
II) At Walker Art Gallery, Minneapolis, MN.
Which painting was Pirsig thinking of? It’s hard to imagine Pirsig not running into “Church of the Minorites II” at the Walker Art Center in his own hometown.
Here are two additional links of interest: 1) Walker Art Center, Minneapolis, MN https://walkerart.org/
2) For more Paintings by Feininger, [https://www.artexpertswebsite.com/pages/feininger.php > |Art Experts Show 6 Interesting Paintings by Lyonel Feininger, Click Here. ]].
Bill Paton also said in a ~2002 email that there are WebPages which provide information related to Pirsig's life in Minneapolis. 2) Googling => Tribute To Dean Maynard E. Pirsig, University of Minnesota Law School. , will find much additional information Re Robert Pirsig’s Father. And
3) In the ZMM book Afterword, Pirsig says of his son, ‘‘Chris's Grandfather lived in Minnesota.’‘ Pirsig is apparently of Swedish descent and has made several trips to Sweden and has lived there for a time. Click on ZMM Links in menu at left.
The Minneapolis life of ZMM Author Robert Pirsig (and o/c the ZMM Narrator), is confirmed in Ian Glendinning’s VERY VALUABLE => Psybertron Pirsig “Timeline” ZMM Route OutlineBelow I supply information that you may want to add to your road atlas. Town names marked with * are those actually named in ZMM. The ZMM route from Minneapolis* to the North Dakota border is not really specified in the novel. In the process of studying my Minnesota map, I deduced that the ZMM trail going northwest out of Minneapolis was most probably MN Route 55. This fits the clues given in ZMM: 1) It would have been a good way to go to the towns specified in North Dakota. 2) The Narrator misses the turn-off, which Rt. 55 has, soon after the town of Elbow Lake. 3) A turn-off such as this would have, as John says (p21.3), a sign ‘‘ “big as a barn door!” ’‘ 3) Continued travel, (now on US 59) fits because it would take our riders (as stated in ZMM) ‘‘ “over an Interstate Highway" ’‘ whereupon 4) U.S. Rt. 59, would continue to MN Rt. 210 where the ZMM Route turns West to Breckenridge*, MN (p25.9). In my Part I Gallery two photos which discuss at length the virtues of Rt 55 (above) in contrast to the less preferable Rt 10. Click Here To See A Google Satellite View, Which Shows These Above Mentioned Routes.
Soon thereafter, the ZMM Route crosses the Red River and simultaneously changes to North Dakota ND Rt. 13 going west. This is the stretch of road where the Narrator, Chris, John, and Sylvia encounter the violent thunderstorm and the Narrator sees ‘‘ “remembered farm houses" ’‘ during the brilliant flash of lightning. Pirsig as Phaedrus must have become familiar with this road as he went from Montana State University (Bozeman, MT) back ‘‘home’‘ to Minneapolis many-a-time to see family, etc. ND Rt. 13 continues to the intersection of ND Rt. 1 where the ZMM Route turns South to Oakes, ND ( <= North Dakota). In the novel, the first night's motel name is not specified. From the clues in ZMM, it was likely on West Main Street, Oakes, ND:. Although Sven Lindqvist said The E & I Motel (Now Closed?), in Oakes fits ZMM book's descriptions, it is a LEFT turn at the cottonwoods contrary to ZMM’s stated RIGHT turn. Currently, you will find 3 motels in Oakes, by doing a Bong or Google search for => Motels In Oakes North Dakota.
The ZMM Route takes ND Rt. 1 South from Oaks, where it turns West on Rt. 11 to Ellendale*, ND SL says the Ellendale* Nodak Hotel, formerly the Blue Bird Hotel, is where the ZMM travelers had breakfast the second day. I agree, but unfortunately, the Nodak restaurant is closed here, and has moved about two blocks north on the same street and on the same side. Continue via ND Rt. 11 thru Hague* ND, and soon thereafter turn South on U.S. 83. Cross into South Dakota, continue through Herreid* SD, turn west onto US Rt. 12, and continue through a series of towns mentioned in ZMM such as Mobridge* SD (Missouri River Bridge), Lemmon* ND, and Bowman* ND. The evening of the second day is spent camping at the Shadehill Reservoir (reached by S.D. Rt. 73) 12 miles south of Lemmon. After the camping, go back to Lemon. Continue West on US Rt. 12 and be sure to turn into the town center of Bowman*, ND to visit Big J's Restaurant.17 N Main St. (Now A Chinese Restaurant is there, so completely different from what Robert Pirsig saw in 1968.)
The ZMM Narrator does not mention the roads or towns they experienced from Miles City* to Laurel*, MT. Pilgrims may follow I-94. However, I-94 here did not exist for the Narrator in 1968. Much of the Narrator’s road was covered-over by I-94 construction or remains only as a ”marginal road”. Close study of your atlas, or Mapquest.com, will show how to pick these our. Your map will also show you how to go through the Narrator’s Montana towns of Forsyth to Hysham, where care must be taken NOT to miss the road back to I-94. EXPLANATION: It is easy to continue on what looks like the main road. But this will take you over the Yellowstone River at Meyers Bridge and a long detour. My photos after Miles City show an alternate, ZMM style high quality backcountry rough dirt route on the North side of the river. Our travelers spent their fourth night in Laurel*: SL says that on Pennsylvania Avenue is the "Community of Hope" charity organization. This is located in the former Heritage Haus. In the 1960's this was the Hotel Hurzler". I agree and show photos and location information here. At Laurel* take U.S. Rt. 212 thru the underpass and on to Red Lodge*, MT to Bear Tooth Pass (in Wyoming), to Cooke City*, MT to Yellowstone National Park, to Silver Gate, to Tower Junction, WY toward Mammoth Hot Springs, turn North on U.S. Rt. 89, exit Yellowstone National Park and on to Gardiner*, MT where our travelers spend the fifth night at the Hillcrest Motel. SL says that the new owner of the Hillcrest Cottages Motel knows his Pirsig, and keeps up the tradition of well-fitted doors and perfectly mitered moldings that the Narrator observed while there in 1968.
From Gardner, MT, U.S. Rt. 89 returns the Narrator back to I-94 near Livingston, MT. The Narrator does not mention any highway names in this area, but MT Rt. 540 is an apparent ZMM Quality backcountry, alternate route, parallel to U.S. Rt. 89. The first 1/3 of this road is good gravel, and rest is pavement. Since this road fits the Narrator’s definition of a good road, you should use it. The Narrator does not mention the road they followed from Livingston over Bozeman Pass to Bozeman*, MT. The Pilgrim may follow I-90, or follow Narrator’s advice and choose to follow the marginal roads that run more or less parallel to I-90. On these marginal you can go more slowly, and stop to view the buffalo and rest = more ZMM like. (Mapquest.com, at the higher zoon-in levels, shows where you can find the marginal. But a very close map study will be required not to get shunted off onto a rancher’s road with no convenient way to go west or get back to I-90!!) In the years 1959-1981, when Pirsig was a Professor at Montana State University at Bozeman, English classes were in Montana Hall. The Bozeman campus is south of the Bozeman business district and the main street. When Pirsig looked out the window of his classroom, he could see the Madison Range* of mountains, which is southwest of Bozeman. The DeWeeses lived off Cotton Canyon Road, which is south of Bozeman. While in Bozeman, our travelers ride up to an old mining town and back. Pirsig's mountain climbing with Chris was further south. GZMM says: ‘‘the much larger creek in the distance (p232) was Hyalite Creek, parallel to and northeast of Cottonwood Creek from which they had ascended. The main downtown hotel'' was the Baxter at 105 Main. The Narrator, Chris, Sylvia, and John stayed in DeWeese home South of Bozeman the 6th to 11th nights. For the serious ZMM enthusiast to become a “Pirsig Pilgrim”, MUST visit Robert & Gennie DeWeese Home, on Cottonwood Canyon Road. Courtesy demands you call ahead to get an appointment convenient time. Their daughter Tina DeWeese lives in this home now. Her phone number is likely in the Bozeman directory or you may email. Her email address is on her webpage, DeWeese Art, found by a Google search for her name. Mr. Pirsig said in a recent letter, "To get a feeling of the mountains around Bozeman you might explore Hyalite Canyon, which is one canyon East of Cottonwood Canyon where the DeWeeses lived. If you drive to the end of the canyon and then follow the trail up to Hyalite Lake using a geodetic survey map you will see more trails branching from there that are fabulous climbs. Better be in shape though.
My ZMM Part 3 Photos Shows What Robert Pirsig, Chris, and the Sutherlands might have seen along Main Street of Bozeman, MT, As They Arrived.
Places to see in Bozeman: The Bozeman bar where the Narrator said goodbye to the Sutherlands was on a major street with ‘‘ “heavy traffic of out-of-state cars.” ’‘ Nearby was a park bench marked “SENIOR CITIZENS ONLY,” a place to get food and a filling station. All these places were within easy walking distance, by way of an attempted rest in a churchyard, through the local neighborhoods to the Bozeman campus (p155.1).
The Narrator does not mention the Montana roads they followed, heading West from Bozeman, Mt. For an interesting ZMM hi quality road, travel North from Bozeman leaving town on North 7th Street and proceed north on US 10 through Belgrade and Manhattan to Three Forks*. My Part III photos show a VERY interesting short detour, to where you can observe the confluence of the three rivers of Three Forks, MT.
Be Sure To Closely Read A Very Interesting WebPage "Zen and the Road to Redmond”, Bo Robert J. Bannis. He had shared his excellent knowledge of the ZMM Route from Bozeman, MT to Redmond, Oregon. This WebPage has photos and discussion of the locations of many ZMM sights and scenes along this route. This Old Webpage Is Now Available Thanks To Archive.org Click Here:
Take Rt 2 West from Three Forks where it combines with Rt 287. Rt 2 branches off to follow the Jefferson River. The Narrator says: “At Three Forks the road cuts into a narrow canyon of whitish-tan rock, past some Lewis and Clark caves. East of Butte we go up a long hard grade, cross the Continental Divide, then go down into a valley. Later we pass the great stack of the Anaconda smelter, turn into the town of Anaconda and find a good restaurant with steak and coffee. We go up a long grade that leads to a lake surrounded by pine forests and past some fishermen who push a small boat into the water. Then the road winds down again through the pine forest, and I see by the angle of the sun that the morning is almost ended" (p235.9). This means that leaving Three Forks* the ZMM Route followed U. S. Rt. 278 to MT Rt. 2 which goes slightly beyond Butte* where close map study will surely find a secondary road connection to MT. Rt. 1, which will lead to the Montana towns of Anaconda*, Philipsburg*, Maxville*, Hall*, and then to Missoula*. After this travel and close map study, Pilgrim may choose interstate highways or secondary roads. After gusty winds, the Narrator and Chris are ready for a rest in a churchyard in Hall*. Out of Missoula*, MT the ZMM Route again takes up “good old” U.S. Rt. 12, at first traveling South with US- 93, then at small town of Lolo, MT, right turns Southwest, and after 32 miles of twisty-winding, climbs gradually, a right turn North, that leads to the restaurant, at 38500 Lolo Creek Road, Lolo, MT. This right turn is ~7 miles Before Top Of Lolo Pass and the MT-ID border:
After Chris & the Narrator ’‘ :”we fill up on pizza and milk, and when finished leave right away” ’‘ and then
Next morning, after camping in Idaho, ~9 miles West of the Montana Border, the ZMM Narrator says => '' “This road keeps on winding down through this canyon. Early morning patches of sun are around us everywhere. The cycle hums through the cold air and mountain pines and we pass a small sign that says a breakfast place is a mile ahead. Soon a second sign saying CABINS with an arrow under it points off to the left. We slow down, turn and follow a dirt road until it reaches some varnished log cabins under some trees. We pull the cycle under a tree, shut off the ignition and gas and walk inside the main lodge. The wooden floors have a nice clomp under the cycle boots. We sit down at a tableclothed table
This is no doubt that the Narrator & Chris breakfast was at Lochsa Lodge, since that is the only place near enough. This is also stated by Robert J. Bannis.
Back on the highway, the Narrator says: On the road down the canyon now we feel the steady drop of altitude by a popping of ears. It's becoming warmer and the air is thicker too. It's goodbye to the high country, which we've been in more or less in since Miles City. The ZMM Route continues on U.S. Rt. 12 through Lowell. ID, and turns South at Kooskia, ID onto ID Rt. 13*. “Soon we leave the river and the old sleepy buildings and now climb to some sort of a dry, meadowy plateau. ..At the top of the plateau at Grangeville, Idaho, we step from the blasting heat into an air-conditioned restaurant. Deep cool inside." (p259.1). From Grangeville, the ZMM Route follows U.S. Rt. 95.
For The ZMM Enthusiast Who Want To Travel The Lower Portion Of The ZMM Narrator’s Old Gravel Road, With All The “Hundred Hairpin Turns.” Traveled By Robert Pirsig & Chris In 1968.
… Alternatively, you may try And AFTER this very useful, many, many, very useful, featured, Internet Map comes up, you should C& P into the Box Top Center these GPS Coordinates => 45.829013, -116.246531 Zoom in till you see that here is a dirt road leaves US-95, going SE, and is OLD US-95: This is the dirt road which Robert Pirsig took in 1968, down-“White Bird Grade”, to town of White Bird ID. For a Side Project: Click Here, To Learn How To Use Some Of The Many Features of Caltopo Maps. AFTER Page Comes Up, Scroll Down To => <b> CalTopo Is Excellent For
And then the Narrator says “The road has twisted and rolled over desert hills into a little, narrow thread of green surrounding the town of White Bird, then proceeded on to a big fast river, the Salmon, flowing between high canyon walls. Here the heat is tremendous and the glare from the white canyon rock is blinding. We wind on and on through the bottom of the narrow canyon, nervous about fast-moving traffic and oppressed by the fiery heat.” (p260.2). Later, “The walls of the canyon here are completely vertical now. In many places room for the road had to be blasted out of it. No alternate routes here. Just way the river goes. It may be just my imagination, but it seems the river's already smaller than it was an hour ago." (p262.2). The Road Atlas shows several roadside rest areas on U.S. Rt. 95 between White Bird* and Riggins*. At one of these, the Narrator and Chris cool off with water pumped from an iron pump. The ZMM Route continues on U.S-95 to New Meadows*(In this stretch, I could not identify the Narrator’s ’‘ “abandoned schoolyard with huge cottonwoods” ’‘ .) Then Cambridge*ID (for supper) where the Narrator turns West on ID Rt. 71 to The USFS Brownlee Campground. This is announced by a little sign, where they camp for their 13th night (p289.0). Continue on ID Rt. 71 to Brownlee Dam* and the notorious Snake River. The ZMM Route crosses the Snake River, just after passing the Brownlee Dam*: Now in Oregon the road leads to OR Rt. 86 to Richland* OR, and on to Baker* OR, where OR Scenic Route 7 will lead to OR Rt. 245 South, to a road that goes West to Hereford and then to Unity*. Turn Northwest on U.S. Rt. 26, which will lead through the Dixie Pass* to the Oregon towns of Prairie City* ( “for malted milks and letter writing” ), Dayville* OR (Gas station, the giant cottonwood trees, and the Chinaman's irrigation ditch), Mitchell* OR (This is the driest country yet.” ), Concerning the next town in Oregon, the ZMM Narrator says => ’‘ “We arrive in Prineville Junction with only a few hours of daylight left. We’re at the intersection with Highway 97, where we’ll turn south, …. .“ ’‘
Instead of going West as originally intended the Narrator, in a state of great mental depression, abruptly (without giving any explanation), turns South on Rt 97 to Bend* OR, for supper. Further South on U.S. Rt. 97, the Narrator and Chris camp in an unsuccessful ‘‘ “housing development of ridiculous tiny lots” ’‘ for their 14th night. There is strange spongy dust under the pine needles. The rocks among the pines are volcanic!
Next the ZMM Narrator says => ’‘ “Breakfast of ham and eggs” ’‘ is at a restaurant next to a filling station in Lapine* OR. The ZMM route continues on U.S. Rt. 97 to OR Rt. 138 where it turns West to Crater Lake National Park.*. After Crater Lake, Rt-62 is a good way to continue Southeast This is where the Narrator went along the Eastern Shore* of Klamath Lake*, and where the Narrator reports “We pull in for lunch at a roadhouse which belongs to this era too. Wooden frame badly in need of paint, neon beer signs in the window, gravel and engine drippings for a front lawn. .. Inside, the toilet seat is cracked and the washbowl is covered with grease streaks,” (p313.4). In 2002, I followed the newer “thru highway” = Rt. 97 along Klamath Lake, and did not see any restaurants. But Lee Glover subsequently found => The Kamath Roadhouse Restaurant, which is shown in my ZMM Part 3 Gallery. (If anyone needs additional information right away, send me an email => Click last lines below Contact Me for addresses.) …The Narrator realizes he has not chosen the best way to the ocean coast. To make up for his mistake, he follows the Southern Shore of Klamath Lake. (Mapquest.Com, zoom level 9, shows Nevada Street turns West off of Rt 97 at a major intersection and follows the shore to Lake Shore Drive and leads to OR Rt. 140 where the Narrator ‘‘leave the lake [going] to the west, toward the coast’‘ (p315.2). This must be OR Rt. 140 to Medford* OR, since this road would go “upward to forest of huge trees” .[ (Douglas Fir, where].. “The road reaches a summit and then drops sharply into a valley …. that is exquisite!” (p317.8). “When we're through the folded hills we come to Medford and a freeway leading to Grants Pass and it's almost evening” ‘(p318.5). The Narrator and Chris probably took the Interstate, I-5, to Grants Pass* OR, where they stayed the 15th night ’‘ “in a motel and found, the next morning, a Laundromat and a welder for chain guard repairs.” …This is … . ’‘ The “cleanest welding shop” the Narrator has ever seen!
After Grants Pass, OR, the ZMM Route would likely follow U.S. Rt. 199 Southwest, into California, whereas my photos for Part IV show the route goes thru a fantastic redwood forest. Rt 199 continues to Crescent City California, and turns south on CA Rt. 101 at the ocean coast. In Crescent City* CA, the Narrator and Chris eat at a fancy restaurant with red carpet. They see a beach from the road (possibly near Oirck CA) and spend time there for much needed rest. They arrive in Arcata* after dark and eat at a small dinner (p345.6). After a night-time very long, rainy drive to perhaps Loleta, CA or Fortuna, CA, they are forced by fatigue and the rain to exit the dangerous road conditions. The Narrator gives us the following clues as to how to find their motel that night => “We take the next exit from the freeway, hoping it will lead somewhere, and soon are on bumpy blacktop with ruts and loose gravel. I go slowly. Streetlamps overhead throw swinging arcs of sodium light through the sheets of rain. We pass from light into shadow into light into shadow again without a single sign of welcome anywhere. A sign announces STOP to our left, but does not tell which way to turn. One way looks as dark as the other. We could go endlessly through these streets and not find anything, and now not even find the freeway again” (p359.4)
Although my Part IV photos show where to find a motel consistent with the Narrator’s above descriptions, more search is needed. I did not see any of the slugs or find people who could tell me where to look. Starting soon after Fortuna CA, there is a road called the “Redwood Highway” = Rt 254. This is the old Rt 101, prior to the construction of a parallel newer “superhighway” Don’t miss this older road, since it is almost certain to be the Narrator’s road:, having the virtue of being a ZMM style Quality Road, since you will travel most of the way in well preserved Stare Park Redwood Forests, weaving around the base of these huge trees, where you feel the dark coolness, and can almost reach out and touch them!!
The Narrator tell us => “Farther on at Leggett we see a tourist duck pond and we buy Cracker Jacks and throw them to the ducks and he does this in the most unhappy way I have ever seen. Then we pass into some of the twisting coastal range road” (p361.9).
…After Leggett*, CA the ZMM Route turns West, onto Rt. 1, which goes to the California Coast, and turn South to Mendocino*, CA and the Mendocino Headlands State Park. See my Part IV photos for instructions how to drive to the Leggett CA, town public park, where happened this ZMM duck pond scene. After paying a $ entrance fee, you will have a VERY surprising experience there, . Subsequent photos tell how to find the continuing ZMM route. “We're on the Mendocino County coast now, and it's all wild and beautiful and open here. The hills are mostly but in the lee of rocks and folds in the hills are strange flowing shrubs sculptured by the upsweep of winds from the ocean. We pass some old fences, weathered grey. In the distance is an old weathered and grey farmhouse. How could anyone farm here? The fence is broken in many places. Poor.” ’‘ … ‘‘ “Where the road drops down from the high cliffs to the beach we stop to rest.” (p363.9). There is a crisis developing between the Narrator and Chris. Very soon after they have lunch, probably in Caspar*, CA, they ’‘ “go slowly south looking for a restful place to pull of. … we should talk.” ’‘ Mr. Pirsig writes in a letter that the "climax" of the story was on a bluff, near the ocean, along the Point Cabrillo Road. The turnoff to this road is the Caspar-Little Lake Rd. off CA Rt. 1 between Caspar Creek and Doyle Creek. This is about 3/4 mile south of Caspar Road.
In ZMM’s concluding paragraph, the Narrator tells us the Poetic Metaphoric California towns of their final travel in => '' “And so we ride on and on, down through Ukiah, and Hopeland, and Cloverdale, down into the wine country. The freeway miles seem so easy now. The engine which has carried us halfway across a continent drones on and on in its continuing oblivion to everything but its own internal forces. We pass through Asti and Santa Rosa, and Petaluma and Novato, on the freeway that grows and fuller now, swelling with cars and trucks and busses full of people, and soon by the road are houses and boats and the water of the [San Francisco] Bay.” ’‘ (372.8). ’‘ “We've won it. It's going to get better now. You can sort of tell these things.“ ’‘ (p373.1). Mr. Pirsig says that he still has the 1964 Honda Silver Hawk motorcycle that made the trip. In a recent letter, he further stated that he and Chris rode this bike all the way back to Minneapolis. He even gave me His route back which has been added to this Sept’13 2013, Digital Photo Map Version #2
MANY, MANY, THANKS TO THE FOLLOWING PERSONS WHO HAVE GENEROUSLY CONTRIBUTED INFORMATION. RP = Robert Pirsig who has supplied the quoted information about hiking trails South of Bozeman and the location of the Climax scene. BP = Bill Paton is a "Solutioneer"
SL = Sven Lindqvist, an author who followed the ZMM Trail in May 1994, wrote up his experiences as a series of newspaper articles in the Swedish language. The first article appeared 4 August 1994 in the Kultur and Nojen section of Dagens Nyheter, Stockholm's morning pager. The last article, of which I am aware, was dated 18 August 1994, and ends his travel story at Bozeman, although evidently he traveled all the way to San Francisco. He may yet publish his entire trip in book format. GZMM = The Guidebook to Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance by Ronald Di Santo, Ph D. and Thomas J. Steele, S. J. END Minor revision by DavidM120929:EditMlp180802 MjrRevHsg180803, MoreMajorRevHsg240113-26, HsgRev3-4June24.
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