As I Followed the Bumpy, Irregular Paved Road Up This Grassy Mountain Side,
….I Suddenly Noticed This Fleeting Deer. With Some Driving Maneuvers, I Was Finally Able To Catch a Picture.

… [ “Soon we leave the river and the old sleepy buildings “ ] “and now climb to some sort of a dry, meadowy plateau.” (Cont. Next)

Half way up the climb to the plateau of Grangeville, ID. Note deer upper left. After I spotted this doe, I followed her as she moved amongst the trees. She moved parallel to the highway, so I kept pace in my car, until I was finally able to get a photo, but only through the car window.
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(Photo = 110-1092c ...... ZMM Page = 259 ...... WayPt = 274i ~1580ft)

In a Picture Perfect Grassy Plateau, Our View Is Marred With a Double Dose of Electric Power Poles!

….[ “Near the top …. of a dry, meadowy plateau. “] “The road rolls and bumps and rocks so much I have to keep the speed down to fifty. There are some bad chuckholes in the asphalt and I watch carefully for more. .. We’re really accustomed to making mileage. Stretches that would have seemed long back in the Dakotas now seem short and easy. Being on the machine seems more natural than being off it. We’re nowhere that I’m familiar with, in country that I’ve never seen before, yet I don’t feel a stranger in it.” (Cont. Next)

Three miles East of Grangeville, ID. This high plateau probably owes its existence to a “cap” of tough volcanic rock (ancient lava) that has relatively greater resistance to being worn down by some sixteen million years of weathering.

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(Photo = 110-1101c ...... ZMM Page = 259 ...... WayPt = 277x 3446ft)

On the Top of The Plateau …. There’s The Next Town …. Just As Stated By The ZMM Narrator.

…. “ At the top of the plateau at Grangeville, Idaho, …. ” (Cont. Next)

Grangeville, ID.
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(Photo = 110-1112c ...... ZMM Page = 259 ...... WayPt = 279w 3474ft)

This Is the Only Late1950’s Era Restaurant I Could Find.

….“ … we step from the blasting heat into an air-conditioned restaurant.” (Cont. Next)

Grangeville, ID.
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(Photo = 110-1117c ...... ZMM Page = 259 ...... WayPt = 280w 3431ft)

Looking Through Glass Front Door, Look Closely To See =>
…Where Is The ZMM Narrator’s “Deep Cool Inside. ”
….Here, “We Pass Unnoticed Through Other Peoples’ Lives. ”

…. “Deep cool inside. While we wait for chocolate malteds I notice a high-schooler sitting at the counter exchanging looks with the girl next to him. She’s gorgeous, and I’m not the only other one who notices it. The girl behind the counter waiting on them is also watching with an anger she thinks no one else sees. Some kind of triangle. We keep passing unseen through little moments of other people’s lives.” (Cont. Next)

Grangeville, ID. Robert Pirsig came this way, in the summer of 1968. Does anyone have a guess who the three “high-schoolers“ might have been?
….It must have been Sunday when I was there, because I found the streets deserted, and nearly everything closed, including this restaurant, despite the mid afternoon hour.

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(Photo = 110-1116c ...... ZMM Page = 259 ...... WayPt = 280w 3431ft)

The Narrator Provides Additional Descriptions of the High Idaho Plateau They Had Traveled Over, Saying =>
….It Looks Almost Like The Prairies Of The Dakotas.

….“Back in the heat again and not far from Grangeville we see that the dry plateau that looked almost like prairie when we were out on it …. ” (Cont. Next)

Southwest of Grangeville, ID. Just west of town, Rt-13 ends and the ZMM Route turns South onto US-95, a major through-highway for all of Western Idaho. It travels, always South (or North), originating way North of Radium Springs in Canada, continuing to I-80N West of Boise, ID, with continuation generally South, practically all the way to Blythe CA, at the Colorado River, near the Mexican border!!
….As you will see, the ZMM Route follows US-95 South for ~90 miles, traveling deep into the Salmon river Canyon, through New Meadows, ID, to Cambridge, ID, where it will turn West onto Rt-71 into Oregon.

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(Photo = 110-1103c ...... ZMM Page = 259 ...... WayPt = 280i. Photo at WayPt = 277x 3446ft)

At The Top Of A Dramatic Hill, 5.5 miles before White Bird, ID.
Looking Back Toward Grangeville, We See The Cut To Lower the Road:
…Here The ZMM Narrator Says => “ … The Dry Plateau …. Suddenly Breaks … ” '' …

This /\ Above /\ Photo location is nine miles SW of Grangeville, ID. Due to very low humidity, and relatively high altitude => In the /\ above /\ photo, the sky is very clear and the sun is intensely hot & bright. And the sky at top left is somewhat “blue black“
… As was mentioned by the Narrator at Beartooth Pass, Idaho is also a good place to see his “dark sky & black shadows“. For example => Look how black and sharp edged are the shadows of the big rocks.
…. These rocks, although discolored, are likely of volcanic origin. My upcoming photos, will all show geologic evidence of an ancient and huge volcanic lava flow. To see these ancient volcanic formations, start here to study the exposed rocks in the next photos, especially photos 110-1131 thru 110-1147.
….The rocks you will see are parts of a huge and very ancient lava flows that are rightly famous for their fantastic size. These lava flows started some 17 million years ago, and for the next 10 million years, successively built up successive layers, several miles deep, over a large part of Idaho, Washington, and Oregon. These lava flows are known by various names such as: Columbia River Basalt Group, Columbia River Flood Basalts, Columbia Basalts, Columbia Plateau, Great Miocene Lava Flow, Miocene Basalt, Miocene Lava, The Great Miocene Lava Lake, or “Lake Idaho”.
….A 1973 U.S.G.S. report stated: “The geology of the Columbia River Basin (which we have just entered) is a legacy of Miocene lava flows, volcanoes, glacial topography, and colossal [ice dam] floods”.
….For more information, search the web or consult the popular books called “Roadside Geology of Idaho”, “Roadside Geology of Washington”, & “Roadside Geology of Oregon”.
….I believe that the Kooskia, ID “ …. climb to some sort of a dry, meadowy plateau ” is a climb up onto a volcanic “cap”. And indeed, this is where The ZMM Route, entered one of the Eastern lobes of this gigantic lava formation. If you have additional information, please contact me.

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(Photo = 110-1120 + 110-1121sc ...... ZMM Page = 259 ...... WayPt = 281x 4164ft)

On Idaho’s major North-South Highway, At the Top of White Bird Hill, Looking Down, Down, Down, and South, Towards the Land East of the Salmon River Canyon.

…. [the land suddenly breaks] “ away into an enormous canyon.” (Cont. Next)

At top of Dramatic Hill, 5 miles before White Bird, ID. Nine miles SW of Grangeville, ID. On my 2002 trip here, I was unable to find the ZMM Narrator’s dramatic, old, gravel road with all the ~40 hairpin curves that the Narrator and Chris followed. .

… Along US-o5, Just out of Grangeville ID, A Google Satellite Map shows, will show where to 45 deg turn Southeast, onto this old road, which leaves US-95, going SE, and connects to OLD US-95: This is the dirt & gravel road which Robert Pirsig took in 1968, down-“White Bird Grade”, to along Wite Bird Creek, and through the town of White Bird ID.. >Click Here, And AFTER This Satellite View Comes Up, The Red Pinpoint Marks the Turn-Off To Lower Portion OF the Gravel Road & 40 Hairpin Curves.
…You will see that Grangeville, ID is 9 miles Northeast.

… Alternatively, you may try And AFTER this very useful, many, many, very useful, featured, Internet Map comes up, you should C& P into the Box Top Center these GPS Coordinates => 45.829013, -116.246531 Zoom in till you see that here is a dirt road leaves US-95, going SE, and is OLD US-95: This is the dirt road which Robert Pirsig took in 1968, down-“White Bird Grade”, to town of White Bird ID.

For a Side Project: Click Here, To Learn How To Use Some Of The Many Features of Caltopo Maps. AFTER Page Comes Up, Scroll Down To => CalTopo Is Excellent For

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(Photo = 110-1123+110-1124sc2 ...... ZMM Page = 259 ...... WayPt = 281x 4164ft)

The Brown Dirt Cut In The Distant Hill, Is An Example of One of Many Gravel Road Hairpin Turns Traveled In 1968 By ZMM Author Robert Pirsig and His Son Chris. .

….[into an enormous canyon.] “ … I see our road will go down and down through what must be a hundred hairpin turns …. ” (Cont. Next)

Top Of Dramatic Hill, 5 miles before White Bird, ID. Nine miles SW of Grangeville, ID.
….As you will see, the highway has clearly been modernized since the Narrator was here in 1968. From the (newer) roadside pull-off at the top of the down grade, we can see in the /\ Above Photo, a segment of the Narrator’s road with one of the first of their hairpin curves.
….Observe the ABSENCE of a Guard Rail on this rough & tough gravel road back in 1968.
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(Photo = 110-1122 + 110-1123sc2 ...... ZMM Page = 259 ...... WayPt = 281x 4164ft)

At Top Of Dramatic White Bird Hill.
…The Narrator Indeed Describes the Landscape Accurately!

…[.“…. a hundred hairpin turns ”].“ into a desert of broken land and crags.” (Cont. Next)

Starting down, down => The 5 miles to White Bird, ID. Nine miles SW of Grangeville, ID. Just right of center, you can see the roadcut for the Newer Highway.


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(Photo = 111-1124 +1sc ...... ZMM Page = 259 ...... WayPt = 281x 4164ft)

Wow! Wow! Wow!!!
…..“ Into A Desert Of Broken Land And Crags.”

….“I tap Chris’s knee and point and as we round a turn where we see it all I hear him holler, "Wow!"” (Cont. Next)

Top Of Dramatic Hill, 5 miles before White Bird Hill, ID. Nine miles SW of Grangeville, ID. At right edge, you can see the roadcut for the Newer Highway.

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(Photo = 111-1124 +1sc3 ...... ZMM Page = 259 ...... WayPt = 281x 4164ft

At Top of Hill, Starting Down, Down, to White Bird, ID.

….“At the brink I shift down to third, then close the throttle. The engine drags, backfiring a little, and down we go.” (Cont. Next)

Top of White Bird Hill, Starting down, down => The 5 miles to White Bird, ID. Nine miles SW of Grangeville, ID.

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(Photo = 111-1125cz2.0 ...... ZMM Page = 259 ...... WayPt = 281x 4164ft)

The Landscape Is Getting Lower Elevation, and Thus Dryer and Hotter, and More Barren.

….“By the time our cycle has reached the bottom of wherever it is we are, we have dropped thousands of feet. ” (Cont. Next)

One mile South of White Bird, ID. The /\ above /\ photo shows the Newer Highway, US-95, going up hill South, where it will go then over the hump, and down again into the Salmon River Canon.

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(Photo = 111-1133 + 1sc ...... ZMM Page = 259 ...... WayPt = 283x 1732ft)

Looking Back (North), At The Road We Have Just Come Down.
…Just Right Of Center, The Whole Distant Mountain Sides Are One of the Many Nez Perce National Historical Parks.
…Looking Closely, You See After The Foreground, What Looks Like A Minor Dip In The Highway. Although Not Evident, At The “Dip”, The Highway Goes Over Very High Expensive Bridge, Over The Huge Canyon Of White Bird Creek!
…A Dramatic View This Will Seen In THIRD NEXT Photo.

….“I look back over my shoulder and see antlike cars way back at the top.” (Cont. Next)

One mile South of White Bird, ID. When I was here, I looked in vain for roads that would lead to the locations of The Narrator’s 1968 “ … I see our road will go down and down through what must be a hundred hairpin turns …. “.
….But with a printed topo map in hand, it should be easy for you to find, the needed road(s to do this.
…Can someone please tell us how much of this old twisty hairpin curved gravel road is open to cars or whether it can be hiked? Please send photos that fit ZMM passages.
…Since this is a National Park, I should think it is accessible to the Public, but of course you should check first.
…The 2nd next photo will additionally discuss the Narrator’s Road to White Bird Hill using the old twisty hairpin curved gravel road.
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To see both the Narrator’s old twisty hairpin curved Gravel Road and The Newer Highway, US-95, on a Topographic (Topo) Map, Click Here => RIGHT CLICK AND SELECT “NEW TAB” => AFTER Map View Comes Up, You Will See an AWFUL Clutter of Adverts That Are Impossible To Eliminate => YOU BEST SHOULD => .
….Use Scroll Bar At Far Right => Adjust Green Topo Map Until You See JUST BELOW The Plus&Minus At Upper Left => A ClickOn For “Full Screen”. Click On It, And Adverts Will Be GONE. => >
….Then use Plus&Minus To Zoom. You can “Click&Drag” Map In Any Direction, To See More Off Your Screen Edges.
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Once The Above Blue Link Is Up, And Clicked For Full Screen, You Should Be Able To See =>
…A) At Far Left the Blue “Salmon River” along which further South, The ZMM Route, on US-95 will follow.
…B) At center, The Nez Perce National Historical Park, surrounded by a Bold Red-Brown Border.
…C) A bit left of the Bold Red-Brown Border, the Narrow Dark Line is the Newer Highway, US-95..
…D) Just Right of the Upper Part of the Border, you will see Narrow Double Line of the older US-95, which is the Narrator’s gravel road => “ … I see our road will go down and down through what must be a hundred hairpin turns …. “
…E) Close study of either end of the Narrow Double Line, should reveal how to find, the “connecting road(s)”, needed to actually access & travel the Narrator’s old twisty hairpin curved gravel road.

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(Photo = 111-1131 + 1sc ...... ZMM Page = 259 ...... WayPt = 283x 1732ft)

A View Of The Newer Road, US-95, Going South =>
….The ZMM Route Now Heads Uphill South, And At The Top Will Descend Down And Into The Deep Salmon River Gorge.

….“ Now we must head forward across this baking desert to wherever the road leads.” (End Chapter 24.)

One mile South of White Bird, ID. The ZMM Narrator’s “wherever the road leads“ implies (and mirrors) the burden he feels that he must now, in a NEW Chapter, take-up the NEW AND TOUGH SLOG, through the topic of “technological ugliness “ wherever it takes him, as he takes-up the “dry” (corresponding to the dry land, trapped in a Narrow Canyon) discussion of his proposed solutions to these problems.
….At this point, it is implied that there is no way to escape this upcoming difficult Chautauqua Task, just as surely as it is inevitable that the road South will enter a deep, nearly inescapable, barren, hot, river gorge.
….He will use down to earth, ordinary, everyday examples, corresponding to their lower altitude and barren circumstances.
….Along this stretch of road South of White Bird town, the deep gorge mentioned by the Narrator, runs parallel to, and about a mile West of US-95.
…By contrast, the Narrator’s above passage is situated approximately one mile prior to White Bird, and farther from the river.
…. Since I came through almost a month earlier than the Narrator, the land retains a bit of green, contrary to the Narrator’s above passage.
Based on the Narrator’s poetic usage of town names, I am sure he likes the poetic ring of the words “White Bird”.
….The above photo shows the road one mile South of White Bird. A Better Photo to fit this ZMM Passage is needed.

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(Photo = 111-1135c ...... ZMM Page = 259 ...... WayPt = 283x 1732ft)

From An Access Sideroad Beside The Newer US-95, A View Back (North), Towards The ZMM Narrator’s “ Narrow Thread Of Green Surrounding The Town Of White Bird, …
…And Just Right Of Center, On The Distant Mountainside, Is Located The Nez Perce National Historical Park.
…Stating At Left Edge Of Photo, You Can Discern The Road Cut of The Newer US-95 Highway, Which Continues To The Right, In The Dark Band Along The Distant Mountainside, To A Bit Right Of Center.
…And Continuing Beyond A Bit Right Of Center, Not Discernable On Distant Mountainside, Must Be Located =>.
…The ZMM Narrator’s “ … I See Our Road Will Go Down And Down Through What Must Be A Hundred Hairpin Turns …. “ .

….(Start Chapter 25) “This morning a solution to the problem of stuckness was discussed, the classic badness caused by traditional reason. Now it’s time to move to its romantic parallel, the ugliness of the technology traditional reason has produced.
.... The road has twisted and rolled over desert hills into a little, narrow thread of green surrounding the town of White Bird, … ” (Cont. Next)

One mile South of White Bird, ID. In the /\ Above /\ Photo => The newer highway down White Bird Hill, is visible as the trace coming down the mountainside at left. As you can see, it comes down a long, steady, straight grade and remains at a much, much, higher elevation than the town as it by-passes to the West. The next photo shows how this was done.
….According to TopoZone.com, the Narrator’s rough & tough gravel road, with some 22 switchbacks, descends much more steeply down the relatively broad and smooth hill seen above the green beyond the town. Although the old road is barely discernable in this photo, the slightly red-color may be the exposed red soil at the road cuts. This old road finally reaches a creek canyon bottom at the upper right of the trees, and then follows White Bird Creek through the town. This road and the stream proceed, side by side, to the low area in the foreground, and then off the photo to the left. The road and creek proceed Southwest (left), at nearly the same elevation, an additional mile to the Salmon River. All this fits the Narrator’s passages above.
…At this location, my unaware ego precipitated “Low Quality“! I did not drive into White Bird town, along this access road in /\ Above /\ Photo, because I was “in a hurry“ to reach “BROWNLEE CAMPGROUND“ before dark.
….In retrospect, I see that my anxiety and fatigue at that time, lead to this hasty, faulty, low Quality decision, causing me to miss many Excellent ZMM Route Research & Photo Opportunities!
…During this time, I also failed to realize that both of my camera batteries were nearly dead. So when I got to the Brownlee Campground, I found that I had gone 15 miles past my last source of electrical power with no promise of any for 25 miles ahead!: Thus, the next day, dead batteries resulted in many more photo opportunities missed.
...Also, from the advantage of hindsight => I can now see how simple it would have been just to go into town and ask where the ZMM Narrator’s rough & tough old gravel road was! Obviously, this old road was in the town itself! I was low on gumption!! Moreover => I had not proceeded “without desire“. Better maps would have helped. But all this sad story holds Important Object Lessons :-((
….Now realizing where the Narrator’s 1968 road is, and where the best ZMM passage photos would have been, I chide myself for not following my hunch and taking the road (in the /\ Above /\ Photo at right), into town, and thus get a better photos for the above ZMM Passage! Of course, we now have Google Street View, which might show some good scenes. .
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(Photo = 111-1139c ...... ZMM Page = 260 ...... WayPt = 284w 1681ft)

Although Achieved At Some Expense, This High Bridge, Plus Some Deep Road Cuts In The Mountain Is =>
…. How the Newer HighwayUS-95, Avoids the Steep and Tortuous Hairpins of the Old Road!
…. Below Bridge Is Green Along The Creek, Such As Mentioned By ZMM Narrator.
This Bridge Is Over White Bird Creek Canyon, And Above, Note Volcanic Rock In the Mountain Side.
…In 1968 Robert Pirsig & Chris Likely Followed The Old Road Along White Bird Creek, Through town of White Bird, And In Canyon (Seen Under The Bridge), Continued To The Left West, About A Mile, Into The Even Deeper Salmon River Canyon.

…. [ “ …into the thread of green surrounding the town of White Bird, “] “then proceeded on … ” (Cont. Next)

One mile South of White Bird, ID. The Narrator’s “then proceeded on“ refers to his and Chris’s following the old road, which is along White Bird Creek, at the base of the canyon, in /\ Above /\ Photo. Please be aware that in 1968 Robert Pirsig & Chris likely followed the old road along White Bird Creek to the left, West, about a mile, into the even deeper Salmon River Canyon. Of course, the bridge was not there in 1968.
….In the /\ Above /\ Photo => Be sure to study the color and texture of the rock in this mountain. I believe this is volcanic rock that came from an ancient lava flow called the Columbia River Flood Basalts. As you view the next photos thru number 110-1148, look for this type of rock. About 2/3 of the pictures will clearly show it, especially photos 110-1142 thru 110-1147. ((Many thanks to USCA Geology Professor Allan Dennis for his consultation (and getting it right), concerning the rocks labeled as "volcanic" and "Columbia River Basalts" in these photos.))

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(Photo = 111-1140 ...... ZMM Page = 260 ...... WayPt = 284w 1681ft)

White Bird Creek Has, By Eons Of Erosion Literally Cut Thru The Closer Mountains, As It Flowed To Join The Salmon River & Canyon.
…In 1968 Robert Pirsig & Chris Likely Followed The Old Road, To The Left West, Along White Bird Creek (Below Level Of View), At Bottom Of Canyon Seen Beyond The Foreground.
…From Here, They Traveled Further West, About A Mile, Into The Even Deeper Salmon River Canyon, Which Is Below The Distant Mountains.

…“ …. the road …. then proceeded on to a big fast river, the Salmon, ….” (Cont. Next)

One mile South of White Bird, ID. As mentioned in previous Photo Caption, the Narrator’s 1968 road, and White Bird Creek are in the deep cut, as they go through White Bird town center. This is where the best photos would have been.
…In four miles (Next Photo), the view changes dramatically, as we take the “new road” into the Salmon River Canyon, which will be at the hidden base of the far distant mountains /\ Abpve /\ Photo.
…. Again, you recognize volcanic rock. I have the impression that the previously mentioned volcanic flow, which covered one quarter the combined area of Idaho, Washington, and Oregon, is the biggest ever!!! It is said to have fill up 40,000 cubic miles!! In Blue Link Below => The Discussion & Geology Volcano Flow Maps Are Interesting. Click Here.

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(Photo = 111-1129 + 1sc ...... ZMM Page = 260 ...... WayPt = 283x 1732ft)