The Land Is So Flat Around Here, You Have No Awareness That You Are In a "Valley. Certainly You Can Easily Drive Over This River And Not Even Notice It's Significance!!
"By the time we are out of the Red River Valley the storm clouds are everywhere and almost upon us."
Red River, Border MN&ND. I was actively looking for this river on my 2002 trip. But I zipped right over this bridge and completely missed it!!
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(Photo = Summer2006 0203 ...... ZMM Page = 025 ...... WayPt = 014m)

On and On ..... We Move Down the Endless Straight Road As If Standing Still!

... "I have a feeling none of us fully understands what four days on this prairie in July will be like. Memories of car trips across them are always of flatness and great emptiness as far as you can see, extreme monotony and boredom as you drive for hour after hour, getting nowhere, wondering how long this is going to last without a turn in the road, without a change in the land going on and on to the horizon.
.. John was worried Sylvia would not be up to the discomfort of this and planned to have her fly to Billings, Montana, but Sylvia and I both talked him out of it. I argued that physical discomfort is important only when the mood is wrong. Then you fasten on to whatever thing is uncomfortable and call that the cause. But if the mood is right, then physical discomfort doesn’t mean much. And when thinking about Sylvia’s moods and feelings, I couldn’t see her complaining. .. " [Cont next]

About 15 West of Breckenridge, MN. Except for being perfectly flat for hours, this coulN be my (Henry Gurr's), home state of northern Ohio!
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(Photo = Summer2006 0199 ...... ZMM Page = 018 ...... WayPt = 014n)

Humid-Hazy Skies Over Lone Windmill. The Prairie West of the Red River, Which Is the MN - ND Border.

… " Also, to arrive in the Rocky Mountains by plane would be to see them in one kind of context, as pretty scenery. But to arrive after days of hard travel across the prairies would be to see them in another way, as a goal, a promised land. If John and I and Chris arrived with this feeling and Sylvia arrived seeing them as "nice" and "pretty," there would be more disharmony among us than we would get from the heat and monotony of the Dakotas. Anyway, I like to talk to her and I’m thinking of myself too. " [Cont next]

Some 20 Mi West of Breckenridge, MN. Here I discover my first windmill! This brings to mind page 26 in ZMM where (on this road) the Narrator reports " ...then in the brilliance of the next flash that farmhouse . . . that windmill . . . oh, my God, he’s been here! ..." So I stop to photograph this one.
…The hazy humid sky seen here fits passage above. ... In Mr. Pirsig's photos of this same area, you will note the perfectly blue sky! This fits Mr. Pirsig's recent confession that the storm and high-speed run to escape the rain was fictional. Click Here: And AFTER this Albums Page Comes Up => Click on the SECOND Down Album Re Pirsig 1968 Photos. => Then compare this landscape, with that seen Pirsig’s photos of his original 1968 trip. Look at first 3 photos. Will open in new browser. *************************

(Photo = 102-0304 ...... ZMM Page = 018 ...... WayPt = 016w)

Southeastern North Dakota, Like Kansas, "Is Flatter Than a Pancake"!

" In my mind, when I look at these fields, I say to her [Sylvia], "See? -- See?" and I think she does. I hope later she will see and feel a thing about these prairies I have given up talking to others about; a thing that exists here because everything else does not and can be noticed because other things are absent." [Continuing Page 025] "I suddenly notice the land here has flattened into a Euclidean plane. Not a hill, not a bump anywhere. This means we have entered the Red River Valley. We will soon be into the Dakotas." [Later in Chapter 3] "By the time we are out of the Red River Valley the storm clouds are everywhere and almost upon us. .. John and I have discussed the situation in Breckenridge and decided to keep going until we have to stop. .. That shouldn’t be long now. The sun is gone, the wind is blowing cold, and a wall of differing shades of grey looms around us."

20 Mi West of Breckenridge, MN. .. Having stopped to photograph the lone windmill, I realize this is a good open place to "shoot" my second 360 deg full circle panorama..: After this Gallery Albums Page Comes Up, Scroll Down To & Read Description Of => “Album 360 Degree Panoramas for Book "Zen & the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance" THEN Click On The Small Photo, and AFTER this Small Photos Page Comes Up => Click on the second narrow strip photo. AFTER this Panorama Comes Up, you will have to use the “Click&Drag” sliders at Bottom & Right to see the parts of photo off screen. :
& …. (Alternate: If you have already viewed a panorama in a second (new) browser window, simply switch to it and choose the first Gallery Picture)

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(Photo = 102-0294 ...... ZMM Page = 018 ...... WayPt = 017`|x|' 1355ft)

Yes, the Land Is "Bored" Flat and the Roads Are Even Straighter!! You Better Get Used To It. View Direct West.
"It seems huge, overpowering. The prairie here is huge but above it the hugeness of this ominous grey mass ready to descend is frightening. We are traveling at its mercy now. When and where it will come is nothing we can control. All we can do is watch it move in closer and closer. .. Where the darkest grey has come down to the ground, a town that was seen earlier, some small buildings and a water tower, has disappeared. It will be on us soon now. I don’t see any towns ahead and we are just going to have to run for it. .. I pull up alongside John and throw my hand ahead in a "Speed up!" gesture. He nods and opens up. I let him get ahead a little, then pick up to his speed. The engine responds beautifully—seventy . . . eighty . . . eighty-five . . . we are really feeling the wind now and I drop my head to cut down the resistance . . . ninety. The speedometer needle swings back and forth but the tach reads a steady nine thousand . . . about ninety-five miles an hour . . . and we hold this speed . . . moving. Too fast to focus on the shoulder of the road now . . . I reach forward and flip the headlight switch just for safety. But it is needed anyway. It is getting very dark."
20 Mi West of Breckenridge, MN. Having stopped to photograph a lone windmill here, I realize this is a good open place to "shoot" my second 360 deg full circle panorama.
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(Photo = 102-0298IrfanviewShrp ...... ZMM Page = 025 ...... WayPt = 017`|x|' 1355ft)

We Interrupt the ZMM Narrator's Storm Drama Narrative To Show You The Long Lost Site of Pirsig's Most Famous 1968 Photo!

"Up ahead the other riders, John Sutherland and his wife, Sylvia, have pulled into a roadside picnic area. It’s time to stretch."

EXPLANATION:
….Ever since crossing the Border into ND, Rt 13 has been to the West … “Arrow Straight” … for 40 miles. But slightly South of Wyndmere, ND , Rt 13 suddenly, turns to go the SW SW, only to straighten out to go … Again Go West.
… “Arrow Straight” … For another 26 miles, and suddenly Rt 13, AGAIN turns to go the SW. … HERE the ZMM Route Traveler … should SLOW-DOWN => This is where upon the /\ Above /\ Photo scene appears! This offers proof that HERE, South of Milnor ND. , is the physical site of Robert Pirsig's First Three Of Twelve Color Photos. Click Here, and THEN AFTER Albums Page Comes Up => Click on TOP Album, Alternatively these photos are shown in the First Photo Album In Main Menu At Left.

MORE EXPLANATION =>
….Folks at the Dakota Valley Electric Cooperative, told us that their REA Co-op built this picnic area right beside their own Coop Buildings in ~1966, not long prior to the ZMM Narrator's 1968 trip. Since the Historical Marker Park for Camp Buell , happens to be adjacent, they also take care of the mowing and maintenance of the Park as well as this Photo /\ Above /\ Picnic Canopy Area. RIGHT CLICK AND SELECT “NEW TAB” => After Satellite Map View Comes Up, You will See ~ ZMM Route 13 going by The Dakota Valley Electric Cooperative, AND straight down from the White Roofed Building, you see a Small Whitish Square, by the Driveway. THIS is the => The Picnic Canopy of => The Long Lost Site of Pirsig's Most Famous 1968 Photo!
…. After Satellite Map View Comes Up, you may ClickOn The Plus&Minus To Zoom. You can “Click&Drag” Map In Any Direction, to See More Off Your Screen Edges.

Why Is THIS Rest Stop Not Mentioned In ZMM?
.….As the above ZMM passage indicates, Our ZMM Riders needed to stop regularly to rest and stretch. We note that earlier rest stops in Minnesota on Rt 55, were mentioned, so, why THIS rest stop not mentioned? The answer is immediately apparent:
….This stretch of road from Breckenridge to Oakes is fully occupied with the drama of the lightning storm, the high-speed chase to avoid heavy rain, & the brilliant flash of lightning, whereupon Phaedrus see the Ghost!
….Having a "rest break" here would break all the carefully built drama!! This would not do!!! End Of This Story.

NEW TOPIC: How did Gary Wegner Find the Robert Pirsig Picnic Canopy Shown /\ Above /\ ?. For a long time the geographical location of Pirsig's picnic area has been unknown, despite widespread efforts to the contrary. Finally, Pirsig Pilgrim Gary Wegner, taking leadership, wrote to the County Engineers in the North Dakota Counties of Richland and Sargent. Tim Schulte, Richland County Engineer, replied: “I did some checking with various folks in Richland County and nobody could remember a rest area along State Highway 13 in Richland County. (Continued next photo.)

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(Photo = Summer2006-0217 ...... ZMM Page = 025 ...... WayPt = -017i)

These Commemorative Markers of Buell Camp Are Just West of The REA (Rural Electric Act of 1936) Picnic Area Shown In Previous Photo.

..****************..
….Continued from previous photo, which was on Topic =>
Mr Gary Wegner’s => Finding Robert Pirsig's Picnic Canopy.
….Mr. Schulte, of The ND Highway Dept, surmised that this picnic area could have been in front of the Tastee Freez (Dairy Queen), just off of the State Highway near the town of Wyndmere, in the western part of North Dakota's Richland County. He said "If there was a rest area along State Highway 13 it was probably west of Wyndmere in Sargent County.”

… Gary Wegner Then Contacted Jennifer Manstrom, Wyndmere School Librarian. She replied: “We have done some asking around and we don't think it was in Wyndmere, but more likely the Hwy 13 rest stop is just west of Milnor, beside the current Dakota Valley Electric Cooperative We think the same shelter is STILL there!. If that isn't it, it may be at Gwinner at the intersection of Hwy 13 and the state highway which goes to Lisbon. I hope this helps! But there never was a canopy at the Wyndmere Tastee Freeze.”

….Wonderful!! Getting Closer!
…. Next Gary Wegner contacted the Dakota Valley Electric Cooperative at Milner. Co-op employee Dayna Speich replied: “Congratulations, you have found the location! The [Canopy] picture was taken just west of [our] Dakota Valley Electric Cooperative (then R.S.R.) building at Milnor, ND along Highway 13.”
…Later she helped Gary Wegner identify a precise map location saying: “On the map it looks like it would be between the ‘A’ and the road to the right.” The location is an historic site. That is why they [Pirsig] probably stopped there.
….Gary Wegner also contacted Timothy Reed, Research Archaeologist, State Historical Society of North Dakota (SHSND), Bismarck, ND who referred to the publication “A Traveler's Companion to North Dakota's State Historic Sites.” Click Here.

Gary Wegner replied to the folks from ND => “Thanks again Tim, Jennifer, Timothy, and Dayna! North Dakotans are cool and kind!”

… The Camp Buell State Historic Site is located one-half mile southwest of the junction of ND 13 and County 1. There is a marker on the site commemorating the July 3-4 campsite of the 1863 Sibley Expedition.
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Right Click & Select New Tab To => View Google Satellite View Of => Dakota Valley Electric Cooperative, And The Adjacent the Buell State Park.

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(Photo = Summer2006-0222 ...... ZMM Page = 025 ...... WayPt = -017i)

Robert Pirsig And Chris On Their Honda CB77 Superhawk, July 8, 1968.
…The Above Photo Is Copy Of Robert Pirsig’s Own Photo, Taken At The Long Lost Site of Robert Pirsig's Most Famous 1968 Photo!
…For Robert Pirsig's First Three Of Twelve Color Photos. Click Here, and THEN AFTER Albums Page Comes Up => Click on TOP Album.
…Alternatively, these SAME photos are shown in the First Photo Album In Main Menu At Left.

EXPLANATION =>
….Ever since crossing the Border into ND, the ZMM Route on Rt 13 has been to the West … “Arrow Straight” … for 40 miles. But slightly South of Wyndmere, ND, Rt 13 suddenly, turns to go the SW SW, only to straighten out to go … Again, Go West.
… “Arrow Straight” … For another 26 miles, and then suddenly Rt 13, AGAIN turns to go SW.. … ATTENTION: HERE the ZMM Route Traveler … should SLOW-DOWN => This is the location, where Robert Pirsig’s Most Famous Photo scene appears! Is HERE, South of Milnor ND. Click Here.

MORE EXPLANATION =>
….Folks at the Dakota Valley Electric Cooperative, told us that their REA Co-op built this picnic area right beside their own Coop Buildings in ~1966, not long prior to the ZMM Narrator's 1968 trip. Since the Historical Marker Park for Camp Buell, happens to be adjacent, they also take care of the mowing and maintenance of the Park as well as this Photo /\ Above /\ Picnic Canopy Area.

NOTE Sept 20, 2025 =>
…Readers should be aware, that since Robert Pirsig took his 1968 Photos, New Buildings have been added, in distance beyond highway. These make verification of the actual photo location, more difficult.
...Since this Metal Canopy had been there since ~1966, it probably became rusty and beyond repair, and in July 2024, we saw it had been removed. Even the concrete base was gone.


… Henry Gurr’s Summer 2006 Photo, offer proof that Dakota Valley Electric Cooperative, is the the physical site of => For.Robert Pirsig's First Three Of Twelve Color Photos. Click Here.

About 0.7 Mile South Of Milner, ND.

File = RobertPirsigFamous1968Photo= P2654209210_ba9f9952bd_o Rexize1000x1111

Monday, July 8, 2024: … Our “ZMM Ride” Riders Have Arrived At => The Location Of The Long Lost Site of Robert Pirsig's Most Famous 1968 Photo.
…And We Are Standing Exactly ON The Canopy Location, BUT As You Can See … NO CANOPY!! :–((
…Several Of Our Riders, Rode Honda CB77 Superhawk Motorcycles, One Of Which You See In Foreground. This Cycle Is Same Make & Model As Robert Pirsig And Chris Rode In 1968.

EXPLANATION REPEATED =>
…Readers should be aware, that since Robert Pirsig took his 1968 Photos, New Buildings have been added, in distance beyond highway. These make verification of the actual photo location, more difficult
. ...Since this Metal Canopy had been there since ~1966, it probably became rusty and beyond repair, so it got removed. Even the concrete base was gone.

About 0.7 Mile South Of Milner, ND.

File = DSC_0062 Resize1504x1000 ~154KB.jpg

Monday, July 8, 2024: AT The Location Of The Long Lost Site of Robert Pirsig's Most Famous 1968 Photo.
…David Matos & Henry Gurr, On A Honda CB77 Superhawk.

Our group of course stopped here, and not being able to photograph the historical Picnic Canopy, we still wanted to come away with good photos. So, it was we decided to create our OWN photo version of => “Robert Pirsig And Chris On Their Honda CB77 Superhawk”, seen above.

About 0.7 Mile South Of Milner, ND.

File = DSC_0065 Resize1504x1000 ~154KB.jpg

In this Flat Land, the Roads Are Arrow Straight.
“We whizz through the flat open land, not a car anywhere, hardly a tree, but the road is smooth and clean and the engine now has a "packed," high rpm sound that says it’s right on. It gets darker and darker. .. A flash and Ka-wham! of thunder, one right on top of the other. That shook me, and Chris has got his head against my back now.“
Near Gwinner, ND. This North Dakota highway is perfectly straight, often for 20 miles at a time. However really bad “S” curves do occur with no apparent reason. Surveying error "off-sets" in section lines? This problem is very evident, in the county roads in Northern Ohio where I grew up.
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(Photo = 103-0308 ...... ZMM Page = 026 ...... WayPt = 021w ####ft)

As Stated on ZMM Page 016, "The farmhouses are clean and white and fresh.”
"A few warning drops of rain-at this speed they are like needles. [At 95 MPH] A second flash...WHAM and everything brilliant-and then in the brilliance of the next flash that farmhouse-that windmill-oh, my God, he’s been here! -- throttle off-this is his road-a fence and trees-and the speed drops to seventy, then sixty, then fifty-five and I hold it there.“
West of Stirum, ND. Here I start my systematic search for a farm house plus windmill that fits above description of "the farm house and windmill illuminated by lightning." The closest examples I found are photos 103-0316 and 103-0350 (later in this Album). But neither of these houses had a water tower + drainage ditch + crossroad. Please let me know where better examples exist in Southeastern, ND. area & adjacent SD.
(Photo = 103-0305 ...... ZMM Page = 026 ...... WayPt = 018`|w|' 1370ft)

Looking South, A View OF Big Cottonwood Trees In Distance.

"The house and water tower have gone by and then a small drainage ditch appears and a crossroad leading off to the horizon. Yes—that’s right, I think. That’s exactly right.
.... "They’re way ahead of us!" Chris hollers. "Speed up!"
.… I turn my head from side to side. .. "Not safe!"
.... "They’re gone!"
.... "They’ll wait."
.... "Speed up!"
.... "No." I shake my head. It’s just a feeling. On a cycle you trust them and we stay at fifty-five. .. The first rain begins now but up ahead I see the lights of a town . . . .“

Ahead, Oakes, ND. Ever since Breckenridge, MN, The ZMM Route travels directly West on Major Highway, ND. Rt-13, which is a "section line" road. This road went by Milnor, ND (Where Picnic Canopy Rest Stop was as discussed previous photo), and continued to (and ended on), ND Rt-1 which is a North-South "section line" road. The ZMM Route here turns onto Rt-1, South to Oakes, ND. This is shown in /\ Above /\ Photo.
…..Note big Cottonwood trees in distance at center of photo. These trees were the (likely) waiting place for John and Sylvia. The trees are beside a restaurant and large parking lot.
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(Photo = 103-0318c ...... ZMM Page = 026 ...... WayPt = 031`|f|' 1313ft)

Big Cottonwood Trees at North Town Entrance.

…. "I knew it [the town] would be there. .. When we arrive John and Sylvia are there under the first tree by the road, waiting for us. .. "What happened to you?" .. "Slowed down." .. "Well, we know that. Something wrong?".. "No. Let’s get out of this rain. “

Rt1 North Side of Oakes, ND. Are these the Big Cottonwood Trees mentioned in above passage? Although unsafe from lightning, this is the (likely) waiting place for John and Sylvia to be sheltered from rain. A restaurant and large parking lot is beside the trees. Although rainfall, on average, is rare in this area, Oakes did receive a very nice drenching the night I stayed there, 16 June 2002.
….The Third Photo Next will show the inside of restaurant.
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(Photo = 103-0319c ...... ZMM Page = 027 ...... WayPt = 032`|e|' 1313ft)

Once-Upon-a-Time Rural Section Line Crossroads, and Now Town Center.
"John says there is a motel at the other end of town, but I tell him there’s a better one if you turn right, at a row of cottonwoods a few blocks down. .. We turn at the cottonwoods and travel a few blocks, … "
South View Main Street Oakes, ND. Many years ago the one major Highway through Oakes went E-W at this traffic light. This is why the two existing Oakes motels are either direction at this intersection. As indicated by the above passage, the Motel Pirsig probably used in 1968 was two blocks West of town center. But this motel was torn down about 2001. There is a newer motel, also on the West side, but on the opposite side of the road and somewhat closer to the stop light.
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(Photo = 103-0323 ...... ZMM Page = 027 ...... WayPt = 033`|w|' 1313ft)

Fifties Style Motel Southeastern North Dakota.

…."…..and a small motel appears. Inside the office John looks around and says, "This is a good place. When were you here before?"
.. .. "I don’t remember," I say.
..... Sylvia has been watching me silently for some time. She notices my hands are unsteady as I sign in. "You look awfully pale," she says. "Did that lightning shake you up?"
.... "No."
.. "You look like you’d seen a ghost."
.. .. John and Chris look at me and I turn away from them to the door. It is still raining hard, but we make a run for it to the rooms. “

E&I Motel Eight Blocks East of Stop Light Oakes, ND. Although the ZMM traveler must turn left to reach the E&I Motel, it is the only remaining Oaks motel similar in style and age to what Pirsig would have experienced in his 1968 trip.

..****************..
DATE-LINE: July 17 2021. by Henry Gurr.
…The Discovery of => The Still Existing Units Of The Former ZMM Motel, Just West of the RR Tracks.
……. (ChangesSinceRobertPirsig1968Trip), As Seen By HSG in 2019.)
Here’s The Story =:
….On my return trip from Montana, I followed the ZMM Route (if reverse), through North Dakota. By the time I reached Oakes, ND on Wed 14 Aug, 2019, it was getting dark. Asking around for a camping place, I eventually was sent to Mr :Paul Roney, who understands my camping request: "Sure! Set up your tent on the lawn under the big oak tree. If anybody complains, tell e’m to call me. And what brings to this area?”
,,,,Stroke Of Good Luck …because when Paul learns about my : “Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance" Research, he says “I’ve got a Storage Container full of Harleys, and with my buddy go on long trips to Alabama, Louisiana, Texas, etc. Love it!! We camp along the roadside, but have a pistol in case there’s trouble.
…Since Paul seems interested ( MORE Stroke Of Good Luck ),
…. Henry gets out a ZMM copy and reads passages Re Oaks, ND.
…Then AN OTHER STROKE OF GOOD LUCK !!
… Paul instantly recognized the ZMM Narrator’s “turn right at a row of cottonwoods”, and instantly says he OWNS, the remaining part of that Old Motel where Pirsig & Company stayed!! OH WOW!! WHAT A (THIRD) STROKE OF GOOD LUCK!
..****************..
6:03 am: Thurs 15 Aug 2019: 330 Main Ave, Oakes, ND 58474 (GPS = 46.138889, -98.096164)
…..Just As In 1968, when The ZMM Narrator said => “Turn Right At A Row of Cottonwoods.” Henry Gurr did this, THEN Crossed The RR Tracks”
….And VOLA!! The Still Existing Units Of The Former ZMM Motel, Oaks, ND!
Now We Know, For Sure, Where That Old ZMM Motel Was,
….And It’s Still There! Henry Is SO Delighted He gave Paul a copy of the ZMM Book!
..*************** *..
…A) To See My Photos For Above “My Story” => Right Click, And AFTER This Page Comes Up, Scroll Down To And Read The 6 thru 9th Small Photos..
…B) . Google Satellite View: The Red PinPoint Is Henry Gurr Panorama Camera Location. ZMM Motel Is To The South Of Red Pinpoint, and Just West of 3rd Street. Click Here.

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(Photo = 103-0324s ...... ZMM Page = 027 ...... WayPt = 034`|h|' 1313ft)

An Oakes North Dakota Restaurant.
"The gear on the cycles is protected and we wait until the storm passes over before removing it. After the rain stops, the sky lightens a little. But from the motel courtyard, I see past the cottonwoods that a second darkness, that of night, is about to come on. We walk into town, have supper, .... "
Rt1 North of Oakes, ND. 7:30pm Evening meal at an Oakes Restaurant North side of Oakes on Rt1. I also arrived in Oakes in the early evening, have my supper here and stayed overnight in Oakes, but at the E & I Motel. I also experienced rain, but it came and went, quietly, over night.
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(Photo = 103-0321c ...... ZMM Page = 027 ...... WayPt = 032`|u|' 1313ft)

1950’s Metal Armchairs Would "Fit Right In" at The E & I Motel

…" … and by the time we get back, the fatigue of the day is really on me. We rest, almost motionless, in the metal armchairs of the motel courtyard, slowly working down a pint of whiskey that John brought with some mix from the motel cooler. It goes down slowly and agreeably. A cool night wind rattles the leaves of the cottonwoods along the road. "

E&I Motel, Eight Blocks East of Stop Light, Oakes, ND. Summer 2002. This /\ Above /\ Photo of E&I Motel show the only remaining Oaks motel similar in style and age to what Pirsig would have experienced in his 1968Trip. The Motel he probably used was two blocks West of town center, just beyond railroad tracks, and was partly torn down about 2001.

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(Photo = 103-0326c ...... ZMM Page = 027 ...... WayPt = 035`|h|' 1313ft)